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Volume 7 September 2005
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PRC Shop Launch, The Cage "Haven
or Prison", Queensland Code of Practice.
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| PRC
NEW LINKS |
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| Clive Isemonger builds aviaries to your specification
or you can choose from a Gallery of pre designed aviaries and cages.
Clive uses quality material and he pays great attention to detail always
ensuring the finished product looks great as well as being of very
sturdy construction |
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| Avian Publications offers the finest selection of books
and videos on bird keeping, care, training and breeding. |
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| Positive
Reward Training -
By Verna Shannan |
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Basic Training - Part 1 The purpose of basic training is to have your parrot behaving
in a manner that is rewarding to the bird and to yourself and your
family. There is a big difference between a ‘Tame’ bird
and a ‘Trained’ bird. It’s a bit like the difference
between a dog who takes his master for a walk and a dog that walks
to heel, comes when he’s called and fetches a ball without
running off with it. An untrained dog may become too much for the
owner to manage and soon be looking for a new home. An untrained
bird almost always ends up cage bound, going from home to home
or worse still being released to starve to death or be killed by
predators. First take the bird to an Avian Vet for a ‘Well bird check,’ (See
Talking Birds – October 2004). Then get the bird eating a
balanced diet, which includes pellets, or dry mix for lorikeets,
vegetables and fruit, (See Talking Birds – November & December
2004). Then set the cage up in such a way that there is one high
perch at the back of the cage and one low perch near the door,
(See Talking Birds – January 2005).
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Find your bird’s five favourite
treats by taking away all his food in the evening before he goes
to sleep for the night, then put one of everything in his dish the
next morning and see which he takes out first. The next day leave
the number one favourite out and do it again to find the number two
favourite and so on.
Favourites might be a small piece of sweet biscuit,
a tiny piece of prawn, cracker pieces, fresh corn kernels and sunflower
seeds,
in that order, as is the case with my Sulphur Crested Cockatoo hen.
She doesn’t get the biscuit or prawn very often, which is why
they are so special.
My Eclectus hen gets
one almond, in the shell, every night if she goes into her cage when
told, without any argument. She savours that nut like it was the
last one she was ever going to get. Sunflower seeds come next, then
fresh corn kernels, grapes and cotoneaster berries in that order.
Stop putting these favourites into your bird’s
food bowl and use them only for rewards. When using wet food as
treats, like corn kernels or grape pieces, hook a small D-cup (from
the bird department in your pet shop) onto your waistband and put
them in there instead of your pocket.
Wear appropriate clothing. I have a flannelette, long sleeved ‘Bird
shirt.’ The thickness of the material stops the claws from
scratching my arms. When my birds see me put the shirt on they
know its playtime and become excited. They immediately get into
their proper positions at the aviary door and settle down, as they
have been taught.
Clothes with big patterns or loud colours can be upsetting to
a parrot but once a bird knows and trusts you he will probably
not be affected by anything you wear.
Some parrots are afraid of anything with eyes, either clothes
or toys such as teddy bears. Probably because the bird can’t
read any signals in eyes which are on an inanimate object. My own
birds are unhappy if I have sunglasses on. They can’t glean
any information from the expression in my eyes when they are hidden
behind dark glasses. I am also uncomfortable talking to someone
in glasses that hide his or her eyes from me.
Establish a routine for training; the best times are in the morning,
before the bird eats breakfast, and again in the afternoon or evening
before he has his main meal.
NOTE:
Never train for more than five
to ten minutes, depending on your bird’s attention span
and your patience. Never lose your temper with the bird, or yourself
for that matter.
If you come home from work after dark make sure you have a light,
on a timer, to come on before sunset. There is nothing more upsetting
for a parrot than being crashed in on after dark.
Having taken all this into consideration, and having calmed
yourself into the right frame of mind, (See Talking Birds – February
2005), you are now ready to begin
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| Basic Bird
Training STEP 1. |
PURPOSE: To get the
bird used to hearing his name, understanding the word ‘Good,’ and
to have him eating out of your hand.
The word ‘Good’ is a ‘Bridge,’ whenever
the bird hears the word he needs to know that a reward is coming
because he has done what you are asking of him. Without a bridge
you won’t be able to reward the bird quickly enough for him
to know what he’s done.
1. Leave an empty seed cup in the bird’s
cage or aviary near the top, back perch. Say the bird’s name,
drop a sunflower seed into the cup and walk as far away as you
need to in order for the bird to feel comfortable enough to go
and take the seed. If your bird is a lorikeet use drops
of wet mix from an eyedropper instead of seed.
2. Gradually, over a few training sessions,
walk slightly less distance from the cage as the bird gets
used to you
3. Eventually your bird will get to
the cup before you do, say the birds’ name, drop
the treat in and wait by the cage while he eats the treat,
say ‘good’ and drop in another seed.
4. When your bird is comfortable with
that, hold the treat between your right finger and thumb.
Say the bird’s name, offer him the treat, say ‘good,’ and
reward him.
Wait until the bird is very comfortable before moving on to the next step,
which will be discussed in the next issue.
Please contact me if you need help with your parrot
or parrots and I will send you a list of my fees and services |
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Don’t miss
the chance to come to this one-day workshop at the Parrot Rescue
Centre on the
Gold Coast.
Topics covered will be:
Understanding bird behaviour,
enrichment,
diet,
housing
& training.
There will be some hands on work with our birds. It will also involve
a tour of the Parrot Rescue Centre and seeing trained native Australian
birds free fly outside.
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Presented by: |
Verna Shannan (Parrot Behaviour Consultant) |
Place:
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Mudgeeraba |
Date:
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11 September 2005 |
Time: |
10am-4pm |
Cost:
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$100 per person or $150 for two people |
For Bookings please phone: 0407 911 474 |
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Published
in Talking Birds Australian’s Avian Newspaper- December
04 |
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| Australia's only newspaper devoted to the
care and breeding of birds - including finches, canaries, parrots,
cockatoos, budgies, softbills, pheasants and waterfowl. It is full
of news, information and feature articles from Australia and around
the world. For more information visit: www.talkingbirds.com.au |
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| Companion
Parrot Support Network |
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My bird vocalises a lot what does
this mean?
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Companion Parrot Support Network-FREQUETLY ASKED QUESTIONS
1. My
bird vocalises a lot what does this mean?
In our last FAQ I discussed the
nature of `non-verbal’ communication and how our interpretation
of the physical expressions of our parrots empowers us with an
enhanced ability to interact with them sensitively. In this FAQ
we’ll examine the `verbal’ side of communication.
Hopefully you’ll develop a few key insights to support
your understanding of, and ability to respond appropriately to,
the vocalisations of your parrot.
The first thing we need to understand is
that vocal communication is absolutely essential to the survival
of most parrot species
in the wild. As we are really dealing with `wildlife’ and
not domesticated animals, all of the natural behavioural and vocal
tendencies observed in wild contexts are often duplicated in captive
environments. Parrot calls have evolved as an effective information
transmission tool, capable of being heard across a wide variety
of habitats. Unfortunately this often leads to enormous problems
and difficulties dealing with the vocal behaviour of parrots in
confined spaces such as the family living room. Whilst we all agree
that we need to expect some degree of vocal exuberance from our
parrots, the question remains - are we left without options if
our parrot is a highly vocal one?
Recent advancements in our understanding
of the nature of parrot learning have provided us with the realisation
that vocal communication
dynamics are highly flexible and the type, frequency, intensity
and duration of calls are what we consider `learned’ behavioural
functions. The nature of `learned’ behaviours is such that
there is a degree of flexibility that we can positively work with
in captive environments. One particular field study has noted that
a cockatoo of one species raised by parents of a different species
actually developed calls representative of its surrogate parents – not
of its own species! I have an African Grey parrot that came to
us with a huge repertoire of wild bird calls and the calls of parrots
he had shared aviary complexes with over the years. These calls
diminished over time and were replaced by the calls of wild birds
native to his new environment, and again when we moved there was
a further extinction of some of the old sounds and the establishment
of new calls. He was actually modifying his vocalisations in response
to the environmental stimuli he was interacting with. This indicates
that parrots actually `learn’ how to communicate vocally
as a result of the environmental feedback in action that either
positively or negatively reinforces the behaviour. In short – we
can teach, shape and even reshape the calls our parrots make. With
this in mind we can modify most cases of excessive vocalisation
and reduce such behaviours in very proactive and effective ways.
Indeed it’s this flexibility that enables parrots to mimic
our own language and as such, can be harnessed to our advantage
when working with excessive vocalisation issues.
Consider Conures and Cockatoos – species groups notorious
for having a strong, natural behavioural tendency to contact call,
perform calls at certain times of the day and screech loudly. Even
though there is an element of natural tendency to these vocal expressions,
the type of call, it’s duration, intensity and frequency
are all flexible and can therefore be shaped as a direct response
to the way in which we reinforce them.
All forms of vocal behaviours convey some
form of communication. Actually understanding what message your
feathered friend is trying
to get across requires careful consideration of a number of potentially
influential stimuli such as…
• Time of day and the natural vocal behaviour of the species in the
wild at these times
• Feed and hunger status
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Duration of `activity deficit’ – period left alone
without social interaction or enrichment
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Exposure to vocal stimuli from other birds – both captive
and wild
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Exposure to unnatural sound stimuli within the immediate environment – such
as televisions, radios, children, other pets etc.
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Exposure to potentially aversive stimuli – i.e. something
that has entered the environment that the parrot may be afraid
of. This can be visual as much as aural!
Now consider the history of such behaviour
and how it may have been reinforced in the past. Often we tend
to be quite lazy in
analysing the vocalisations of our parrots and diminish our responsibility
as the potential primary contributor. When we look at the `big
picture’ we often see a definable pattern in terms of antecedent
stimuli (something which motivates the behaviour to occur), the
behaviour itself, followed by a subsequent consequence (some action
in the environment that serves to reinforce the behaviour).
When we find ourselves asking why our parrot
is calling in what seems like an excessive, repetitive or highly
frequent manner it’s
time to reflect on a key point I made in my previous FAQ response.
If the behaviour of your parrot is functionally related to the
environment surrounding it then modifying that behaviour is largely
a case of arranging the environment and facilitating change. When
we consider the nature of vocalisations then we realise that what
we respond to positively will result in a continuation of the behaviour
and what does not receive a feedback response may potentially diminish
over time.
This is just scratching the surface of what
can really be a complex behavioural issue, particularly in terms
of remedial strategies.
If you’d like to delve deeper into working with vocal issues
with your companion parrot/s then I would strongly recommend that
you consider attending one of the parrot behaviour workshops being
held by either Birdbrains at the PRC or Parrot Behaviour & Enrichment
Consultations at Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary. Both opportunities
will provide you with the tools you need to respond to vocal behaviours
in highly positive ways.
For more information about my workshop experience or to receive
a pamphlet with information about my consultation services simply
contact me via jim@parrot-behaviour.info or via my website at http://www.parrot-behaviour.info
Kind Regards, Jim McKendry
Companion Parrot Support Network Founder
Parrot Behaviour & Enrichment Consultations
Do you have a parrot behaviour or care FAQ that you would like
me to answer via the PRC Newsletter? If so then e-mail your question
to Zarita via zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
Written By Jim McKendry
Pet Parrot Behaviour Consultant and Co-ordinator of the CPSN.
To access information on the Parrot-behviour.info
website and the CPSN initiatives please visit:
www.parrot-behaviour.info.com
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Don’t
miss your chance to attend the last Companion Parrot Workshop
for the year at Currumbin
Wildlife
Sanctuary. |
Presented By: |
Jim McKedrey
(Parrot Behaviour Consultant) |
Place: |
Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary |
Date: |
4th December 2005 |
Time: |
8am to 3pm |
Cost: |
125 per person |
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For
Bookings please phone: Cait Feldmann, Education Manager CWS, via
phone on 07-5534 0846 |
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| PRC
TIPS - Foraging Ideas |
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Some natural ways of encouraging your aviary and pet birds to chew
and forage within branches and bark perches are to drill holes under,
on top or on the sides of the perches to hide favourite nuts, seeds
and treats etc (the size of the hole will depend on size of treats
and birds). Also using the v intersection amongst branches is a good
place to wedge pinecones or nuts.
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Plant Toxins
People need to be aware of toxins within plants, seeds and fruits
before providing these to your bird. It is important to note that
just because you may see a wild bird eating a particular fruit seed,
berry or nut etc, this does not mean that it may be safe for your
bird to eat. Birds in the wild have a natural process through foraging
different foods and materials that counteract the reactions of certain
toxins within plants and fruits. For example, Gloria Scholbe an author
for The Holistic Bird Newsletter states within her literature that
Macaws in South America eat many seeds which contain toxins and to
rid their systems of these toxins they eat large quantities of clay
per day.
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Featured Product of the
Month from the PRC Shop
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PRC would like to provide you with
some resourceful information each month of selected items from the
PRC shop. The PRC personally uses all items provided in the Shop
to ensure there safety, durability and excitement factor. Remember
most PRC birds live in aviary environments and practice there natural
chewing ability 24/7 therefore toys put in our aviaries do not have
the same length of durability as a pet parrot kept indoors. When
toys are tested with the PRC indoor parrots, the toys have a longer
durability rate.
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Australian Nuts and Pods
All nuts and pods sold at the PRC are a bi-product of licensed
seed collecting for Land care, land regeneration, farm forestry
or nursery industry.
Size Compatibility: Any parrot from Budgie to Macaw will enjoy
this product.
Safety Rate: These are naturally preserved dry nuts and pods. Completely
safe and healthy for chewing and digestion.
Durability: Depends on the strength and persistence of you bird,
some of the PRC parrots chew endlessly at them and they last a
few weeks, in some aviaries they last months.
Excitement Factor: The birds love the flavour that comes out of
the nut when chewed. The nuts have a strong eucalyptus taste
and smell which the birds cannot resist.
Tips: Treats can be hidden within the cracks of the nuts, such
as sunflower seeds or peanuts etc. At the PRC, we drill holes in
the nuts and make hanging toys by threading them through rope and
leather strips also the nuts can be threaded through wire to make
swings.
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Member
Moments
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| From
the Month of September! |
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WALLY'S WORLD
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Hi everyone, let me introduce myself,
my name is Wally Harris and I am a 5yr. old Male Eclectus parrot
and I have lived with my mum [ Jan ] and dad [ Trevor ] since I was
57 days old. I absolutely adore my mum, since she is the one that
mainly looks after me, and believe me I can be quite demanding and
messy at times, my dad spends time with me too, but since I've hit
Puberty its's my mum I want to be with, I try to preen her hair and
feed her and also "Have My Way With Her", I've even gone
to the trouble of pulling my feathers out and chewing my tail to
try and impress, but Dad keeps butting in and spoiling things, next
thing I know I'm spending 6weeks at Zarita's Boarding School, don't
get me wrong I like being with Zarita as she has looked after me
before and did a great job, but 6weeks! I don't think it will change
how I feel about mum though. Anyway I'm back home now, I did find
the other boarders amusing for a while but, I like being an only
child, I think I kept Zarita amused with my witty words [ I do a
great duck imitation ] and charming personality, and I might have
been a bit naughty, but only Zarita knows. I still adore my mum,
as I knew I would,but everytime I try to " Love Her " dad
whisks me away, I guess he will have to do for now, I've heard a
whisper that I may be getting a little friend. Keep you posted on
that one. See Ya,
Wally. Written By Jan and Trevor Harris.
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| Bird Boarding: Wally
boards regularly at the PRC and is an absolute treasure to look after,
he loves the attention of everyone that comes in for a visit. |
| Story
of the Month: |
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September: “Wally” Jan and Trevor Harris have won
best story for May
How to enter the monthly draw to win a
PRC recommended parrot toy and have your birdies picture and
story part of the PRC Newsletter.
· Fill
out the Parrot Rescue Centre Membership Form
· Write
a story about your feathered friends, weather emotional, funny
or silly
· Send
it to zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
· Include
a photo of your bird as an attachment on the email.
It’s
that easy! We look forward to hearing your stories!
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| World
Parrot Trust |
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THE
CHARITY FUNDING PROJECTS AND PROMOTING
EXCELLENCE IN PARROT CONSERVATION AND WELFARE
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| The Parrot Rescue Centre has become a Member
of the World Parrot Trust and would like to encourage you all to join
as a member of this amazing charity organisation.
The World Parrot Trust aims are:
· The
survival of parrot species in the wild
· and
the welfare of captive birds everywhere.
To achieve these aims they:
·Restore
and protectpopulations of wild parrots and their native habitats
·Promote
awareness of thethreats to all parrots, captive and wild
·Oppose
the trade inwild-caught parrots
·Educate
the public onhigh standards for the care and breeding of parrots
·Encourage
links betweenconservation and aviculture
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| “From
the Avian Vets Desk” - The Importance of a Quarantine Program
for New Birds |
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Many pet bird owners and dedicated aviculturalists
find out the hard way about the importance of health checks and quarantine
programs for newly acquired birds. All too often, I see the end result
of the dangers of introducing new birds to the household or aviary
without implementing a quarantine protocol. The beloved pet bird
becomes seriously ill or dies as a result of infectious diseases
introduced by the newcomer. Valuable collections of aviary birds
are wiped out or severely compromised by similar mismanagement.
Any new birds to a household or aviary should be isolated for a period
of six to eight weeks. The purpose of the quarantine period is to
allow sufficient time for newly acquired birds to exhibit clinical
signs of disease and to prevent the spread of disease to other birds.
At the beginning of the quarantine period, the birds should be examined
by an avian veterinarian, and any identified problems should be corrected.
Physical examination, faecal tests and screening for sub-clinical
infectious diseases should be undertaken. If problems are encountered,
the bird can be treated during the quarantine period. For an apparently
healthy bird, which shows no obvious signs of disease, the quarantine
period allows time for any potential diseases to incubate.
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During the quarantine period strict hygiene procedures should be followed.
Newly acquired aviary birds should be isolated in separate banks of
cages, well away from existing flocks. Newly acquired companion birds
should be housed in a separate area away from any other pet birds.
The separation enables the new bird time to “settle in” and
gives the owner a chance to observe and bond with the new comer on
a one-to-one basis. It is important that the owner does not transmit
infections from the quarantine area to the other birds. Always clean,
feed and handle the birds in quarantine last. Don’t swap dishes,
toys, perches etc. and always wash your hands before and after handling
new birds. In an aviary situation, disinfectant footbaths at the quarantine
aviary entrance are a good idea to help combat the spread of infectious
diseases.
Observation is also important during the quarantine period. Cages should
be cleaned daily and faeces should be monitored. Abnormal faeces can
be an indication of disease. The birds should be handled to check their
condition and they should be weighted regularly. Any significant weight
loss can also indicate problems. The vent should be checked daily.
Pasted vents or faecal contaminated tails can indicate infection. Faecal
build up around the cloaca or cent can cause external constipation.
At the end of the quarantine period, the new bird should be re-examined
by your avian veterinarian. Firstly, to check if any existing conditions
have responded to the appropriate course of treatment and secondly,
to ensure that no new diseases have incubated during the quarantine
period.
Conscientious adherence to quarantine protocol will decrease the likelihood
of health problems developing in you birds. If you are careful about
introducing new birds and follow quarantine procedures you can rest
assured that you’re doing the best you can to keep infectious
diseases from spreading into your home an aviaries.
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Written by Peter Wilson
BVSc MACVSc
Avian and Reptile Practitioner To contact Peter Wilson Click
Here
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| Bird
Boarding |
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Do you need a
guilt-free holiday?
Leave your precious birds with understanding
and knowledgeable parrot carers. We provide quality care for your pet birds
including clean housing, healthy diet, enrichment, interaction
and training (extra fee). Your bird will not have time to be bored
or sad, so stress and frustration will be less likely. All funds made from bird boarding are directly
used by the Parrot Rescue Centre to help with caring and maintaining
the sanctuary birds environment.
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| Bird
Boarding Health Check Requirement |
All Boarding Parrots are required to undergo
a health check by a qualified Veterinarian preferably an avian specialist
or vet that has a special interest in birds, please Click
Here to find your nearest suitable vet.
Health check should include:
- Tested negative to Psittacosis
- Tested negative to PBFD
- Faeces Tested negative for worms and bacteria
- Examination
suggests that the bird is clinically free of illness or infection
and is considered in sound physical health by
the examining veterinarian
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For more information
please contact:
Zarita Garozzo
Parrot Rescue Centre Co-coordinator on:
Ph: 07 5569 2840
Email: zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
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| Meet
some of the family |
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Species: Indian Ringneck
Name: Lissy
Age: 2 years
Sex: Female
About Lissy: Lissy was surrendered as she became
very vocal with her owners, wanting their attention all the time.
She now lives happily in a large flock aviary with other Pet
Asiatic parrots. Lissy loves her interaction with humans but
also likes to hang out with her friend Lilly another white Indian
ringneck.
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| Can
I Adopt a Parrot? |
Yes, if you pass the essential assessment
process.
It is vital that the PRC have a assessment process
for people wanting to adopt a parrot, as many of the parrots that
have been surrendered to the PRC have been given away because of
behavioral issues.
The PRC does the best they can through the rehabilitation
process to ensure that these behaviors are controlled although
when re homing these birds we need to ensure the parrot owner has
a good understanding of parrot needs and requirements.
These birds do not deserve to be moved from home
to home anymore, so if you are adopting a bird from the PRC it
is going to be a life long commitment.
Click
here for more information and to apply
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| A
Story From A Far |
Lockie (Female Rainbow Lorikeet) was a surrender to the
PRC, because she was very noisy and the owner was receiving complaints
from neighbours. Lockie has now been rehomed to a lovely couple who
own a male Rainbow Lorikeet.
Lockie and Kramer now live happily together, tolerating each other
at this point.
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Diego will celebrate
his 6 month anniversary with me on October 3rd 2004. He is happy
and he is loved unconditionally by his new mother. Diego is 5 yrs
old and I am his 3rd (and final) home. The 2 previous owners "didn't
have time for him" and he turned to plucking. He was on an
all seed diet and an extremely small cage. I found him at a bird fair. Though I'm not fond of bird fairs,
I go there to try to educate potential buyers on proper parrot
care. This little guy just pulled at my heart strings and I just
couldn't leave him there. I did not "buy on impulse" as
many people do...I have much experience with parrot's and more
specifically Macaws. He was taken to an Avian Vet immediately and was given a clean
bill of health, which only confirmed that his plucking was behavioural.
He has plucked his belly and legs clean, under his wings, on top
of wings, and his rump...the new feathers that come in are yanked
immediately. He's on a much healthier diet now (pellets and fruits/veggies...which
he LOVES), more toys than he knows what to do with, and a mommy
that will never abandon him. For 6 months, I've tried with no success to curve his habit of
plucking his feathers. It hasn't gotten worse, but it hasn't gotten
better either. But, he is the happiest little guy...he smiles all
of the time. If he doesn't stop plucking soon, he will permanently
damage his feather follicles and will have no chance of feather
growth. But, as long as he's happy...I don't mind. He truly is the apple of my eye. He bonded with me instantly and
now is my shadow around the house. If I'm out of his view for too
long, he'll climb off of his cage (freedom all day) and "pitter
patter" around the house until he finds me. I don't see how
anyone could've thrown him away...he has such a wonderful personality...especially
for a Macaw. Sincerely, Amy and flock of 4: Magnolia (Moluccan), Paulie (Alexandrine),
Sassy (Mitred Conure), and of course my little man Diego (Military
Mac).
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| Next
Month Highlights: |
Positive Reward Training Part 2,
FAQ
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All
Rights Reserved Parrot Rescue Centre Inc 2005 ©.
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