Volume 9 November 2005
Steve Martin Event, RSPCA Fair Go For Farm Animals
Unique Opportunity - by Jim McKendry
The Parrot Society of Australia have organised a special meeting event for November that will feature none other than Steve Martin - perhaps the finest and best known avian trainer in the world. This is an incredible opportunity to listen to Steve talk and see him in action. The event will include a PowerPoint presentation by Steve, followed by some hands on demonstrations with parrots and some Q&A time. This will be Steve's only public presentation on the east coast of Australia so it's certainly an event that anyone involved with companion parrots should attend. To find out a little more about Steve go to http://www.naturalencounters.com

This event will be held on the 27th of November, 2005. Venue details are yet to be confirmed however it will definitely be held in Brisbane. There will be a cost involved with proceeds beyond expenses going towards the new Conservation, Research & Education Trust that the Parrot Society has formed.

If you are keen to attend then you will need to contact:
Stewart Williamson (Parrot Society of Australia President)
on 07-3289 2523 or president@parrotsociety.org.au

Bookings are essential for this event and places will be limited.


Steve Martin & friends
Parrot Society of Australia


The Parrot Society of Australia

Australia’s Leading Avicultural Society

The Parrot Society of Australia Inc. is a non-profit organization dedicated to the promotion and dissemination of information on the breeding, keeping, care and conservation of all parrot species. Formed in 1980, the society has grown strongly each year, with a current membership base of more than 1100 aviculturists and parrot enthusiasts both throughout Australia and internationally. We are Australasia's leading avicultural society, able to provide our members with a wide range of resources and services while maintaining a truly 'club' feel, where member participation in all aspects of the society is encouraged.

Member Benefits
The following comprise a list of just some of the many benefits of becoming a member:
Parrot Society of Australia News - This is the primary service we offer our members, a high-quality, bi-monthly magazine packed full of interesting articles, including our Ask the Experts section, Vet's Corner, and the more recently introduced Companion Pet Bird series.
The Members Only Area - This new area of our website offers discussion groups (message boards), a Guide to Parrot Prices, compiled from surveying 1000 of our members, and loads of articles and news.
Avi-Trade - The most popular listing of birds for sale, wanted or exchange.
Monthly Meetings - These are held in Brisbane on the second Wednesday night of each month.
Library - Contains a large range of magazines, books, video and audio tapes.
Sales Table - A comprehensive range of aviculture items at discount prices
Aviary Visits - Society-sponsored group trips to various "must see" aviaries in south-east Queensland
Guide to Parrot Prices - An annual publication that includes pairs and single birds.
Monster Bird Sale - another popular annual event, 100's of birds sold.
Species Kept Information - The Parrot Society collates information on the various species kept by members, on an annual basis.

Join one of Australia’s most leading avicultural societies.

Click here to become a member now http://www.parrotsociety.org.au


Companion Parrot Workshop Series-The Art and Science of Training Companion Parrots
By PRISCILLA OLD
 
Published in PsittaScene Magazine
Publication of the World Parrot Trust, (PsittaScene Vol 16 No 3 Aug 04)



Photo by STEVE MARTIN
Showing a young Scarlet Macaw the reinforcer. Working to get him onto the scale.

How can I describe a workshop that changed my relationship with my birds so completely? It was a huge leap, and one that I never envisioned ahead of time. My involvement with captive-raised parrots has led me to many educational conferences and exposed me to what I thought was humane treatment of my parrots. In my previous training there was basically one-way communication. I showed / told the bird what I wanted it to do, and expected the bird to respond in kind. If that didn’t happen, I applied one of the many methods I'd learned to get the results I wanted. The introduction of two-way communication, which is a basic premise of Positive Reinforcement, has changed my outlook.

I often wondered why one of my birds would come right out on my hand 95% of the time, but now and then I’d reach for her/him and receive a zap of a bite? Now I don't ask why, but I read the body language - the behaviour - and I believe what my birds are telling me with their body language. I don't try to analyse “why” - just isolate the behaviour, what reinforces that behaviour (the consequence), and what transpires immediately before the behaviour occurs (the antecedent). With these tools in hand, I can then set out a plan to change the targeted behaviours that I’d like to change.

I learned these skills during a workshop offered by Susan Friedman and Steve Martin, which was titled, The Art and Science of Training Companion Parrots Workshop. It was offered in two sessions. The first was a 2-day introduction to Positive Reinforcement. It was presented at an Orlando, Florida hotel. Steve demonstrated how he uses positive reinforcement training from his professional training aspect; Susan started us on our road to understanding the theory and labels from within the scholastic world.

The second session was a 5-day workshop at Natural Encounters’ bird ranch in Winter Haven (NEI). There, sixteen participants heard lectures from Susan and Steve each morning and afternoon, followed by two hours of hands-on training. This combination was great because the lectures gave us the foundation we needed and the hands-on experience gave us the training that can't be replaced by the classroom.

Each group of four participants was assigned to one of NEI’s senior trainers. The first night we were in Winter Haven, Steve offered a list of birds that were available for training. Each person chose one or two birds they wanted to work with, and each group chose two or three as well. Several people asked to work with raptors. I hadn’t considered this, and truly enjoyed the exposure I had with them. When I return for another workshop, I will definitely ask for more work with raptors.

The next morning we decided what behaviour(s) we wanted to teach our birds. Some of us chose very utilitarian behaviours, while others chose more complicated ones. The atmosphere at the workshop is very amiable and non-judgmental, and you can try anything. Some of us started out thinking we would accomplish this, this, and this; some of us had no idea what we wanted to try. Some had to change birds; some had to change what they were trying to do with the bird(s.) It was very fluid and very positive.

 
Often the birds themselves determined the behaviours. For example, if you were working with an older bird that had not been handled for a long time, you might train him to simply step up - or to come out of the cage - or to step onto the scale. If you were working with a ground bird, you wouldn’t try to fly it. Others trained their birds to go into cages and carriers - to fly in a circle - to wave - or pull up a chain to get a treat cup - or take an item from the trainer, turn around on a given area of the perch, run across the perch and drop the item into a dish. This last chain of behaviours was learned by “Ike,” a Kea (Nestor notabilis), who won over all our hearts. He learned so quickly that he constantly amazed us. At one point he forgot to make his turn, so he picked up the object (a metal washer) from the dish, ran back across the perch, made his turn, and returned to the dish. As I said, he amazed us.

My group was lead by Wouter, a young trainer from Holland. After we worked with each bird we would talk about what had transpired - what had gone well, and what we might improve upon. The group would watch each person work with their bird. This helped us see what was transpiring with others, and would give us the opportunity to see what was going well and what could be improved. So we weren’t only learning with our own bird - we were learning as our group worked. Sometimes we would have a chance to observe another group working, as well. All of us flew Scarlets, Greenwings, and raptors between us.

The last afternoon of the workshop was “Show and Tell” time. It was great fun, and a chance for attendees to show off what they’d accomplished with a bird they’d never seen until five days before. I am not comfortable with being in front of a group, but I managed to show off my little Severe, Velcro, with great success. And, as the afternoon went on, we saw the results of the week’s work and thrilled at the overall success of the group. We had many laughs, especially when the “trained” goats were worked.

As we left the ranch, our group of four from Michigan felt very positive about the whole experience. None of us had ever been in such a positive learning atmosphere. None of us wanted to leave, but we all wanted to have our birds with us. We were going back to 13-degree weather after enjoying 70’s and 80’s for a week. It was a hard trip home!

Following are some examples of how this workshop has helped my work with my own birds.....

1 I learned that I had been approaching my birds in a very cavalier manner. I would reach for them - expecting them to WANT (no 2-way communication considered) to come out of their cage, for example - and as soon as a toe was on my finger, I'd be on the move.

2 I’d been approaching them by bringing my hand up from below - very unsettling to the birds. When Wouter pointed this out to me, I actually practiced holding my hand flat and offering it from my chest out toward the bird.

These two things have made a tremendous difference in the security my own birds display when I pick them up. Besides offering a very steady hand, I let them step fully onto my hand - with both feet - before I start moving - constantly being aware of the bird’s comfort level.

Our birds have become more active since I’ve been working with them. They are learning to learn, as we were told would happen. It is very gratifying to see this occur with your own birds.

At NEI they “station” their birds. In every case where a bird had received any training, it went to the “station” perch as the trainer approached the cage if it wanted to come out of the cage. They never take a bird out of its cage while it’s hanging from the top or side of the cage, and it’s never allowed to leave the cage on its own. This station training was the first thing I started working on with my own birds.

Here is an example of my own results while training several of my birds to go to their “station” perch. However, first let me explain that I had been shaping “stationing” by reinforcing the bird:

• when it looks at the perch,
• when it puts one foot on the perch,
• when it steps fully onto the perch with both feet
• and when it stays until asked to step up.
 
We have a 5-year-old Congo African Grey (Sparkle.) The pre-workshop Sparkle was: I approached the cage, opened the door and she would be hanging on the cage door, or from the top of her cage and put her head down to be petted, or try chewing on fingers - or strike out if the mood hit her. I would go into any number of contortions to get her onto my hand to put her on her play stand.
 
Well, I decided to “tackle” her with my newly found workshop skills, along with several of our small birds. I’ve been concerned because I haven’t found a food treat that works as a reinforcer for her. However, a few days ago I went to get her out of her cage, and she went into her usual routine. I closed the door after showing her a perch I wanted her to stand on. I held a pine nut near the side of the cage above the perch. She looked at the pine nut and me, promptly turned her back, and went to the top of the cage to hang upside down some more. I went to the next bird in the room (another CAG -who went to her station,) took her out, reinforcing her with a pine nut, and put her on her stand in the living room.

When I returned to the bird room to get my little Severe out (who also goes to his station,) there was Sparkle standing on the desired perch waiting for me to return. I almost shouted with delight - but I didn't. I calmly went to the cage, stepped her up and walked her to her stand, with much praise and a pine nut.

There is an ample reading list for anyone who is interested in starting along the path of Positive Reinforcement with their parrots. One of the easiest books to read is, “Don’t Shoot the Dog” by Karen Pryor. It gives great examples of how Positive Reinforcement is applied in all areas of one’s life. The author is a well-known dog trainer, and her approach to training follows the Positive Reinforcement methods.

(This article is protected by copyright, therefore the PRC acquired special permission from the World Parrot Trust and author to reprint this document.)
Fair Go Farm Animals-By RSPCA

Intensively farmed sows are unable to turn around with barely enough room to stand and lie down. For 62 per cent of pregnant sows in Australia, a 60 cm x 200 cm metal crate becomes their home during their 16 week gestation period. Denied the ability to exercise many sows experience severe muscle and bone deterioration. Stereotypic behaviours manifest as the pigs display signs of emotional stress and unresolved aggression through continually biting the metal bars, constant head bobbing and chain pulling.

The RSPCA demands that the 60 cm x 200 cm metal crates be replaced by straw yards with individual feeders and electronic sow feeders, and that the amount of time spent in crates be reduced to six weeks.

The RSPCA has developed a set of standards for the production of animal welfare-friendly pork. Pig farms will only be considered for accreditation if the animals are well-managed in humane environments which support the behavioural and physical needs of the animals. For example dry sow stalls and nose rings are not permitted under this accreditation scheme. Purchase only organic or free range pig products, such as RSPCA accredited Ottway Pork through Coles Supermarkets and quality butchers. Log on to or call for your nearest location.

How you can help:
Purchase only organic or free range pig products, such as RSPCA accredited Ottway Pork through Coles Supermarkets and quality butchers. Log on to www.otwaypork.com.au or call for your nearest location 1800 664 166.

Australia exports up to 100,000 goats, 850,000 cattle and six million sheep each year through the cruel trade in live exports.

Exported from Australian cattle stations these livestock face a gruelling three-month or more sea journey exposing them to starvation, disease, high temperatures, humidity and suffocation. Often animals are packed so tightly they cannot lie down, are trampled to death, or unable to reach feed troughs, they starve.

Once docked outside Australian territory, the Australian Animal Protection Legislation no longer applies to the animals. Conditions and treatment can be so bad that in some cases unintentional mortalities after unloading are higher than during transportation.

Live export costs Australians valuable jobs and is completely unnecessary!

Overseas markets currently accepting Australian livestock will accept chilled meat slaughtered in Australia according to their religious and cultural requirements.

The RSPCA is opposed to the export of live animals for slaughter or further fattening and strongly advocates the adoption of carcass only (meat only) trade.

How you can help:
Purchase only free range or humanely produced meat through your local butcher or supermarket

More than 10 million 'battery' or 'caged' egg producing hens across Australia live in cramped, over crowded wire cages, each with less room than an A4 sheet of paper. These birds are deprived of their basic natural behaviour; unable to stretch their wings they lay their eggs on a sloping wire floor that permanently disfigures their feet.

This confinement results in birds suffering serious muscle damage from lack of movement, feather damage and skin abrasions from wire rubbing and feather pecking.

To prevent further injuries young chicks often endure 'debeaking', the removal of up to half the upper mandible (beak) causing shock and sometimes death

The hens are often force-moulted, depriving them of food, water and light to speed up their moulting process and increase their laying capacity. When her productive laying period is over she is simply slaughtered.

Throughout their short life, battery hens are denied normal animal behaviour and the RSPCA is strongly opposed to this cruel and unnecessary practice. The RSPCA supports a number of humane alternatives including accredited barn laid and free range production methods.

To ensure high welfare standards for accredited egg producers, the RSPCA has developed a set of standards and guidelines in which hens are free to roam, stretch and flap, have litter to dust bathe, nests to lay their eggs in and access to fresh air and sunshine. Any farmer can apply for RSPCA accreditation, and eggs from an accredited farm are sold with the RSPCA logo.

How you can help:
Look closely at egg carton packaging. Don't buy eggs labelled 'cage eggs', instead, choose eggs produced in barn laid or free range systems or if unsure look for the RSPCA accredited egg cartons. Beware of misleading labels such as 'vegetarian eggs'. If the box contains the label 'cage eggs' there is no welfare benefit.

It's a sad fact that for most of us, a weekend drive through the beautiful Australian country-side isn't what it used to be. Once farm animals grazed in open paddocks. Now, concealed in barns or sheds, thousands of animals have literally become a production line confined to cramped metal cages. In our relentless effort to compete globally, our humanity and sense of compassion has been replaced by cost-efficiency and profit margins. Practices such as the exportation of livestock, intensive battery egg production and inhumane dry sow stalls in which pregnant sows are kept, undermine the fundamental rights of these sentient creatures places a duty of care on people in charge of animals to take reasonable steps to provide animals with food and water, appropriate living conditions, treatment of disease and injury, and the ability to display normal animal behaviour.

As Australia's peak animal welfare organisation, the RSPCA with community support, will continue to lobby for bans on intensive farming practices and the live export of animals, calling for their replacement with humane and welfare-friendly alternatives. national ban on tail docking of dogs for non-therapeutic purposes in October 2003 banning of duck and quail shooting across Queensland in August 2005.

Welfare triumphs like these ensure that by working together we can and we will effectively change the future of animal welfare.

The RSPCA is working state-wide and nationally to improve conditions for farm animals through campaigning, lobbying government and industry. We aim to positively change consumer behaviour and attitudes towards animals through education, but we cannot do it alone. Buy only humanely produced products. If unavailable, request that your butcher or supermarket stock and promote them. Sign a protest postcard or petition; encourage friends, family and colleagues to do the same and think carefully before they make their next purchase. For more information on RSPCA campaigns or to sign online petitions visit or Join the RSPCA Campaign Team.

For more information on RSPCA Campaigns or to sign online petitions visit: www.rspcaqld.org.au
To join the RSPCA Campaign Team. Call 07 3426 9926 or email campaigns@rspcaqld.org.au
Write to the Hon Gordon Nuttall MP, Qld Minister for
Primary Industries and Fisheries, GPO Box 46, Brisbane,
QLD, 4001 expressing your concerns and outrage and
demand a FAIR GO FOR FARM ANIMALS. FAIR GO FOR FARM ANIMALS.
 
Positive Reward Training - By Verna Shannan


Basic Training - Part 3

The purpose of this third series of lessons for your bird is to get him to come out of the cage on your hand, step up onto electronic kitchen scales to be weighed and then step onto a T-Stand for his morning and evening lessons.

If you are just beginning and haven’t read my articles in the previous issues of Talking Birds, I suggest that you do so before embarking on this month’s lessons.

Your bird should by this time be standing patiently on the bottom front perch waiting to be taken out on your hand when you approach at lesson times. He should then be stepping up without hesitation when you put your hand to his chest to bring him out of the cage and he should be happy to stay on your hand while you walk away from his cage.


When your bird is comfortable with all this it is time for you to acquire a very plain T-Stand, I use the kind with the moveable tray so I can take the feeding cups off, drop the tray out of the way for lessons and then bring it back to serve the bird’s meals. You will also need a set of electronic kitchen scales which weigh in no more than 5 gram increments. If he is a large bird you will need a sturdy perch to sit on the scales for your bird to step up onto to be weighed. If you have a small bird a wicker basket, with a handle to step onto, will do the trick.

When your bird is happy to stay on your hand for a while, start moving away from the cage little by little, day by day, while you keep reinforcing with treats. Gradually have the bird step up onto the T-stand, which you have close by. Practice having your bird step up onto your hand and then back up to the T-stand a few times, bridge and reward every time he follows a command.

Always have the bird step up to things rather than down. Have your hand in front of his chest to have him step up to you. Then hold your hand, with the bird at chest level to the perch, so he has to step up to it in order to leave your hand.

Gradually move the T-stand further away from the cage until the bird is comfortable with being out of sight of his cage.

NOTE: Never work for more than 5 or 10 minutes at a time. Keep your patience, stop before either you or the bird gets tired or irritable. Don’t ever let the bird see you getting irritable. Never, ever, shout abuse as this will completely alienate your bird.

Next you need to teach your bird to step on and off the scales. This is a really good way for you to monitor your bird’s health. Some mornings one or more of my birds might not be excited about training and I might think they are unwell if my scales didn’t tell me that their weight is up and therefore they’re not very interested in the treats today. When this happens I cut their pellets down a bit for a day or two until they are at a weight where treats are once more tempting.

You will also know if your bird is off his food and losing weight for no apparent reason. This tells you that he is unwell and needs to see an avian vet as soon as possible. The smaller the bird the less time you have to get medical attention before it’s fatal.

The next thing to teach him is to do a dropping when he first comes out of the cage so you know that you have about twenty minutes before he needs to do another one.

The routine should go like this:

1.
The bird is on the bottom front perch waiting calmly when you approach.
 
2.
Put a newspaper on the floor and a chair in front of the cage.
 
3.
Sit down, open the door and offer your hand saying ‘Step up.’
 
4.
Say ‘Good,’ and give him a treat when he complies.


5.
Bring him out and hold him over the newspaper. Say ‘Poo Cocky’ (or whatever his name is), wait for the inevitable. This may take a while the first few times but will happen spontaneously after a few lessons.
 
6.
Bridge and reward.
 
7.
Take him to the scales; tell him to step up, bridge and reward again.
 
8.
Note his weight in a diary.
9.
Take him to the T-Stand and practice Step Ups for a while.
 
After morning training time, give your bird his vegetables and fruit on the tray of the T-stand and after evening training time give him his pellets on the stand. This way there is never any food in the cage or aviary except fresh branches and you won’t have a rodent problem. If possible, have your meals at the same time, parrots are social creatures and love to eat with their “Flock.”

Remember to offer your bird water while on the T-stand, if he is out for more than just training, but don’t leave the water there because it will get spilt and possibly thrown across the room. Put a toy on the stand to keep your bird amused once the training sessions and eating are over.

Make your bird’s cage a fun place to go back to, fill it with fresh branches and a toy. Change the toy every day until you run out and then start again so that you are constantly rotating them.

Don’t forget to give your bird plenty of scratches (if he enjoys this) and talk to him when it is behaving well. Unwanted behaviour, such as screaming for attention, must be ignored and desired behaviour needs to be rewarded. If your bird does scream, wait for the screaming to stop, say ‘Good,’ then give him some attention.

To keep you both interested it is highly recommended that you have an ongoing training program. Parrots are extremely intelligent and get bored easily. Boredom will send them crazy and all sorts of behavioural problems may occur.

Remember that your pet bird needs plenty of naps while feeling secure in his cage so don’t leave him on the T-Stand for hours on end.

 

Please contact me if you need help with your parrot or parrots and I will send you a list of my fees and services.

Birdbrains@bigpond.com Mobile: 0407 911 474

   

 
Don’t miss the chance to come to this one-day workshop at the Parrot Rescue Centre on the Gold Coast.

Topics covered will be:
Understanding bird behaviour,
enrichment,
diet,
housing
& training.

There will be some hands on work with our birds. It will also involve a tour of the Parrot Rescue Centre and seeing trained native Australian birds free fly outside.

Presented by:
Verna Shannan (Parrot Behaviour Consultant)
Place:
Mudgeeraba
Date:
5th November 2005
Time:
10am-4pm
Cost:
$100 per person or $150 for two people
For Bookings please phone: 0407 911 474
Birdbrains@bigpond.com Mobile: 0407 911 474
 
Published in Talking Birds Australian’s Avian Newspaper- May 05
Australia's only newspaper devoted to the care and breeding of birds - including finches, canaries, parrots, cockatoos, budgies, softbills, pheasants and waterfowl. It is full of news, information and feature articles from Australia and around the world. For more information visit: www.talkingbirds.com.au
Companion Parrot Support Network

What causes feather loss?

Companion Parrot Support Network-FREQUETLY ASKED QUESTIONS

1. What might be causing feather loss in my companion parrot? (Part 1)

As a behaviour consultant I am regularly asked about feather condition in my client’s birds. The dilemma with such situations however is that many factors can impact on feather health and feather loss, including clinical health issues. In almost all cases my advice is to seek a consultation with an avian veterinarian first. As with any potential health problem that includes the possibility of clinical illness, it is essential that a thorough evaluation of the bird’s nutritional and health status be achieved by a qualified vet and an assessment as to whether the feather loss is clinical or behavioural be made. No amount of work on the behavioural and enrichment side of care will provide the solutions for health issues directly related to disease and/or malnutrition. Unless you are certain that feather loss in your companion parrot is behavioural, seek veterinary advice first. Here’s a few situations where an avian vet evaluation would be imperative…

1) Feather loss around the head of a bird kept on its own
2) Localised feather loss or damage in a specific area on the body
3) Feather loss that has progressed to tissue injury
4) Failure of a juvenile parrot to fully develop its feathers
5) Poor general feather condition and/or colouration
6) Rapid loss of feathers resulting in inability to fly
7) Continual state of moult (constant presence of pin feathers)

Your avian vet is the best-qualified person to then offer insights into the potential clinical causes, which may range from parasitic problems to localised infection to nutritional abnormalities to viral and bacterial diseases.

I’ve observed quite a few parrots kept by new parrot owners who were concerned about the feather loss in their bird only to find that the bird was actually moulting quite normally. Moulting patterns differ depending on the species. Some species experience very obvious seasonal moults (such as Asiatic parrots), some may undergo minor, but definable moulting periods throughout the year and some species may maintain regular, but difficult to observe, moulting and replacement of feathers. In captivity we tend to see the added variable of inconsistent or altered photoperiod effects on feather health due to the keeping of birds indoors and in artificial light environments. This can further cause confusion when determining whether feather loss is `normal’. Every parrot owner should therefore get into a routine of regularly monitoring the amount of feathers they observe lying around the cage each day combined with the general state of feather condition on the bird. Over time you will develop a picture of what is `normal’ for your parrot. Combine this evaluation with an examination of the state of the feathers found in the enclosure. Feather that are fully intact and undamaged are most likely normally moulted feathers. Observations of obviously damaged feathers can provide some insights into whether the situation is outside of the normal spectrum and may suggest the need to discuss the issue with your avian vet. It’s a good idea to take the feathers you are concerned about with you when you go for your consultation.

If feather loss in your companion parrots has been diagnosed by an avian veterinarian as behavioural then the first stage of developing a support plan for that bird is to successfully categorise the situation. In next months newsletter we’ll look at how a behaviour consultant categorises the different forms of behavioural feather loss and damage and examine the potential causes. In part three of this Q&A we’ll then progress to developing some remedial strategies to support behavioural feather loss and damage.

If you are experience behavioural feather loss in your companion parrot then contact me to discuss a support plan that best suits your situation. Alternatively, why not come along to our next Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary Parrot Workshop – Sunday December 4th. In this workshop we’ll discuss the behavioural and environmental enrichment needs of parrots that will help to prevent feather problems developing.

For more information about my workshop experience or to receive a pamphlet with information about my consultation services simply contact me via jim@parrot-behaviour.info or via my website at http://www.parrot-behaviour.info

Kind Regards, Jim McKendry
Companion Parrot Support Network Founder
Parrot Behaviour & Enrichment Consultations

Do you have a parrot behaviour or care FAQ that you would like me to answer via the PRC Newsletter? If so then e-mail your question to Zarita via zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com

Written By Jim McKendry
Pet Parrot Behaviour Consultant and Co-ordinator of the CPSN.

To access information on the Parrot-behviour.info website and the CPSN initiatives please visit:
www.parrot-behaviour.info.com

Don’t miss your chance to attend the last Companion Parrot Workshop for the year at Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary.
Presented By:
Jim McKedrey (Parrot Behaviour Consultant)
Place:
Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary
Date:
4th December 2005
Time:
8am to 3pm
Cost:
125 per person
   
For Bookings please phone: Cait Feldmann, Education Manager CWS, via phone on 07-5534 0846
PRC TIPS - Dangerous Food


A lot of human food is inappropriate food for a parrot not just because it is unhealthy but also can have lethal side affects including death. Products with sugar and salt are not suitable for parrot consumption. It is important to avoid the following products, as they can be toxic and dangerous if consumed by your pet parrot; Chocolate, Avocado, caffeine, alcohol, rhubarb and onions
   
PRC TIPS - Power Points and Leads


Exposed electrical power leads and power points are dangerous if bitten or chewed. Birds like to explore and chew with there beaks, so it is vital that when letting a bird roam the house that power points and leads are concealed. Ideas for concealing power leads and power points are covering exposed leads with PVC piping and buying power point covers.

Featured Product of the Month from the PRC Shop

PRC would like to provide you with some resourceful information each month of selected items from the PRC shop. The PRC personally uses all items provided in the Shop to ensure there safety, durability and excitement factor. Remember most PRC birds live in aviary environments and practice there natural chewing ability 24/7 therefore toys put in our aviaries do not have the same length of durability as a pet parrot kept indoors. When toys are tested with the PRC indoor parrots, the toys have a longer durability rate.

Nut Case

Size Compatibility: Any parrot from Ringnecks to Macaws will enjoy this product.


Safety Rate: 100% Natural Rubber


Durability: Macaws and Cockatoos of all types have not been able to break the rubber.

Tips: Treats such as nuts, fresh food and toys can be hidden inside.


Excitement Factor:
This toy is a must have for all bird owners. The birds spend hours throwing it around and trying to eat the nut placed inside.

This product is available from the PRC shop, price includes delivery.

All profits from the PRC Shop go directly into helping the daily operations of the PRC.

Thankyou for your support


New Products on the PRC Shop
Dino Delights are BACK!
Perfect toy for Large Parrots
   
Vetafarm Avi-Care
For the Disinfection of all companion animal environments including cages, pens, equipment and food containers.
   
Vetafarm South American Mix
South American mix is designed to meet the needs of South American Parrots such as Macaws, Conures and Amazons
   
Vetafarm Maintenance Pellets
Total Avian Nutrition!

Member Moments

Ruby's Story
It all started when I answered the phone one day and our good friend Ian was on the other end telling me about an old sulphur crested cockatoo that needed a home…. And he knew I was a bit of a soft touch…. And well…. Here’s the bloke’s number…. give him a call….

And the rest, as they say, is history.

We drove out to collect Ruby (that’s her new name – we thought ‘Cocky’ wasn’t quite right for such a precious gem) and fell in love with her the moment we met her.

That was 18 months ago.

Ruby is now 80 years old and is every bit the grand old dame of our flock/family. Quite rightly, every other member of our feathered family treats her with respect. She, in turn, is gentle and has a wonderful loving nature.

She absolutely adores Steve (my other half) and we often joke about how she has finally found herself a toyboy. He only has to walk into the room and she gets a spring in her step. She rushes (as fast as her old legs will carry her) over to him and smothers him in kisses. And the adoration is mutual!

From what we know of her history, she has never been able to fly – but that hasn’t slowed her down at all. She loves socialising so we take her with us whenever we visit friends or family. In fact, we now get invitations which stipulate we must bring Ruby. She knows that more people means more ‘scratchies’ and that is one of her favourite things. She loves a head scratch and will sit happily for hours while we preen her. Sometimes she nods off to sleep and snores a little, but we never tell her that. At her age she is allowed to do whatever she wants.

For an old girl, she still has a great set of lungs. She can ‘vocalise’ with the younger cockatoos and give them a good run for their money.

Some of Ruby’s favourite things include:
  • Sitting on her branch in her special tree in the backyard chewing on sticks and gumnuts.
  • Digging in the dirt in the backyard – she really enjoys excavating and has quite a collection of holes under way.
  • And Scotch Finger biscuits – an extra special treat for ‘grandma’

    We are absolutely blessed to have such a special soul in our lives and we are so happy that our precious Ruby is sharing her twilight years with us.

The End

Story of the Month:


November:
“Ruby” Naomi Britten has won best story for the month of November!

How to enter the monthly draw to win a PRC recommended parrot toy and have your birdies picture and story part of the PRC Newsletter.
· Fill out the Parrot Rescue Centre Membership Form
· Write a story about your feathered friends, weather emotional, funny or silly
· Send it to zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
· Include a photo of your bird as an attachment on the email.

It’s that easy! We look forward to hearing your stories!

PRC Support Conservation
What is Conservation?

Conservation involves protecting remaining habitats as well as the birds themselves.

What we can do?

  • Do not buy a wild-caught bird for a pet.(Don’t feel sorry for the bird, as the supplier will just replace it with another if you purchase it)
  • Do not buy furniture, building materials and other items made from mahogany, rosewood, teak or ebony. These are rainforest woods. Buy purpose grown wood, such as pine.

The Parrot Rescue Centre conservation initiative is in place to help provide an awareness to all, that if we do not support conservation organisations, who then will protect our native wildlife. We hope that our membership and support of these large organisations who do so much for our eco system, will encourage you to become an active member also, remember together we can and will continue to make a difference.

The Parrot Rescue Centre is an active member of the following organisations:


The World Parrot Trust
The World Parrot Trust work to achieve the survival of parrot species in the wild, and the welfare of captive birds everywhere.

To achieve this they:

  • Restore and protect populations of wild parrots and their native habitats
  • Promote awareness of the threats to all parrots, captive and wild
  • Oppose the trade in wild-caught parrots
  • Educate the public on high standards for the care and breeding of parrots
  • Encourage links between conservation and aviculture
THE CHARITY FUNDING PROJECTS AND PROMOTING
EXCELLENCE IN PARROT CONSERVATION AND WELFARE

   
Birds Australia
  • Birds Australia is dedicated to the conservation, study and enjoyment of Australia's native birds and their habitats.
  • Birds Australia has joined with bird and habitat conservation organisations worldwide to form a global partnership called Birdlife International.
An Organisation dedicated to the conservation, study and enjoyment of Australia's native birds and their habitats.


“From the Avian Vets Desk” - SEX AND YOUR PET BIRD


When our pet cats and dogs become sexually mature, we can prevent them from mating and breeding by having them castrated or speyed. However, we don’t routinely de-sex birds as the procedure is expensive, can be risky and is usually only undertaken in female birds with gynaecological problems. Therefore our pet birds will have a sex life whether we want them to or not.

Most pet bird owners fail to understand that their newly acquired, hand-reared, pet will grow and develop like a young child. Just as a child grows and matures through the various stages of development to reach sexual maturity, so will the pet bird. The cute, young, cuddly, baby bird will reach puberty and undergo hormone induced behavioural changes just like their human, adolescent counterpart. I commonly get calls from unhappy cockatiel owners. Their sweet little bird has started to bite and be aggressive and demanding. These behavioural changes in cockatiels usually occur between nine months to one year of age. They correspond with the bird reaching puberty.

When birds become sexually mature, their instinct is to find a mate. Birds don’t have “casual sex”. They choose and court a mate, select or build a nest and have sex for procreation rather than recreation. If there is no “feathered” mate to choose from the bird will choose a mate from the “human flock” (i.e. one of the family members).

Many behavioural problems induced by sexual frustration occur when a pet bird chooses a human as his/her mate. When pet birds are inappropriately bonded to a human mate,

they become frustrated because the human mate cannot fulfil the role of mating or laying or sitting on the eggs. In these circumstances birds can be driven by sexual frustration to feather picking or even self-mutilation (where skin and soft tissue is chewed). They masturbate and can become aggressive and dominant towards other family members that they perceive of as a rival.

Female birds that are inappropriately sexually stimulated by their owners (e.g. on the shoulder, kissing, feeding from the mouth etc) can become chronic egg layers. Chronic egg laying can cause uterine prolapse, egg yolk peritonitis, and malnutrition from the depletion of the body stores of calcium and other nutrients and many other problems associated with female reproductive organs and “secret women’s business”.

Therefore, it is very important for the humans associated with the pet bird to always act as a parent or “older bird” to the pet rather than as a lover or a mate. I always tell owners that they should never become a “birdophile” in their relationship with their pet. Just as there are appropriate and inappropriate ways of handling children, there are also appropriate and inappropriate ways of handling pet birds. In other words, owners should not touch or handle their pet bird in inappropriate or sexually suggestive ways. They should never allow the bird to eat out of their mouths or stroke it on the lower back or abdomen if the bird is presenting. These types of behaviours are “birdie foreplay” and encourage sexual and mating behaviour in the bird.

Seasonal changes also trigger the sexual instincts of pet birds. In the wild, heavy rain after a prolonged dry spell will indicate to birds that there will be abundant food supplies to support a clutch of offspring. Abundance of food and longer daylight hour’s signal the appropriate time for breeding. Recently, the prolonged drought has caused unnaturally dry conditions that have mimicked the natural environment of many inland Australian birds. The onset of spring rains after the period of drought has stimulated many single pet female cockatoos or galahs to lay eggs. I have received many calls from surprised owners of 20 to 30 year old sulphur crested cockatoos or galahs that have suddenly laid an egg in response to these conditions.

Spring time is the mating time for many species of birds. As a result of increased hormone levels in spring, birds may show behavioural changes. Males can become more “pushy” and aggressive. Females become more cuddly and amorous, “presenting” to their owners. Owners need to be aware of the reasons for these seasonal hormonal changes in their pets.

It is natural for a bird to reach puberty and chose a mate. It is unnatural for pet birds to be isolated from their own kind and restricted to a caged environment. Well meaning owners often provide a mirror for company. This is the worst thing that they can do. The sexually frustrated, single pet bird will often try and “bond” with his own reflection in a cage mirror. “Randy Budgie Syndrome” is a recognized medical condition where a single, pet, male budgie endeavours to maintain a sexual relationship with his reflection. He masturbates on his perch or cage toys and regurgitates food to his reflection. Some owners consider this activity as a form of entertainment, while others find it distressing. Such activity on a constant year round basis can lead to digestive and hormonal disturbances. Frustrated, single pet birds will often engage in stereotypic and obsessive compulsive behaviour. Some birds will continually pace up and down the length of their cage. Others will acquire a “drinking problem”. This is a form of displacement activity where the frustrated bird channels its sexual urges into an obsessive/compulsive activity such as excessive drinking.

The obvious way to counteract aberrant sexual behaviour in pet birds is to introduce a mate of the opposite sex. There are many “old wives’ tales” about having a mate for a pet bird. The most common misconception is that your bird won’t be tame or talk if it has a mate. This erroneous idea has been disproved so many times. Instead of having one friendly little bird, you have two (provided recognized training and behaviour is applied). When birds have mates of the opposite sex, they have a natural outlet for their sexuality when they become sexually mature. Many owners are horrified when I suggest this. “We don’t want our bird to have babies” is the common response. However there are forms of “birth control” that can be introduced. The important aspect from the bird’s point of view is that they can pair bond with another bird and undergo normal sexual activity. If and when they do mate and lay eggs, the eggs can be boiled to prevent any potential chicks hatching, while still allowing the parent birds to undergo the whole cycle of laying and sitting on the eggs. It is important to leave the boiled eggs in the nest for the incubation period. If the eggs are removed, it will stimulate the female to lay another clutch.

Owners need to have an understanding of bird sexuality as sexual frustrations and inappropriate bonding with owners can result in aberrant behaviour that will affect the bird’s physical and mental health and its relationship with its “human flock”.

Written by Peter Wilson
BVSc MACVSc
Avian and Reptile Practitioner

To contact Peter Wilson Click Here

Bird Boarding

Do you need a guilt-free holiday?

Leave your precious birds with understanding and knowledgeable parrot carers.

We provide quality care for your pet birds including clean housing, healthy diet, enrichment, interaction and training (extra fee).

Your bird will not have time to be bored or sad, so stress and frustration will be less likely.

All funds made from bird boarding are directly used by the Parrot Rescue Centre to help with caring and maintaining the sanctuary birds environment.

Bird Boarding Health Check Requirement

All Boarding Parrots are required to undergo a health check by a qualified Veterinarian preferably an avian specialist or vet that has a special interest in birds, please Click Here to find your nearest suitable vet.

Health check should include:
  • Tested negative to Psittacosis
  • Tested negative to PBFD
  • Faeces Tested negative for worms and bacteria
  • Examination suggests that the bird is clinically free of illness or infection and is considered in sound physical health by the examining veterinarian

For more information please contact:

Zarita Garozzo

Parrot Rescue Centre Co-coordinator on:

Ph: 07 5569 2840

Email: zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com

Meet some of the family


Species:
Galah

Name: Helmet

Age: 30 years

Sex: Male

About Helmet:


Helmet was surrendered because his owner became to old to care for him. The cage shown on the right is what he arrived in and lived his whole life in. He now lives in an aviary with 10 other galahs, and loves to play in the sand, chew on his branches and swim in his bath tub.

The home in which Helmet spent 30 years of his life
Helmet now playing in his aviary sand
Can I Adopt a Parrot?

Yes, if you pass the essential assessment process.

It is vital that the PRC have a assessment process for people wanting to adopt a parrot, as many of the parrots that have been surrendered to the PRC have been given away because of behavioral issues.

The PRC does the best they can through the rehabilitation process to ensure that these behaviors are controlled although when re homing these birds we need to ensure the parrot owner has a good understanding of parrot needs and requirements.

These birds do not deserve to be moved from home to home anymore, so if you are adopting a bird from the PRC it is going to be a life long commitment.

Click here for more information and to apply

Links
Australian Aviary Life Magazine is available Bi- Monthly at all Pet shop and Newsagents. It is a resourceful and informative magazine for all parrot enthusiasts.
 


The Parrot Society of Australia

The Parrot Society of Australia Inc is considered to be the leading society in aviculture for breeders and keepers of all types of parrots -- not only native Australian parrots, but foreign and exotic parrots as well.

 



We're PetRescue, a new not for profit website dedicated to rehoming shelter animals across Australia.

Next Month Highlights: Feather Plucking-Part 2 and More PRC Parrot Tips
 

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