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Volume
9 November 2005
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Steve Martin Event,
RSPCA Fair Go For Farm Animals
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| Unique
Opportunity - by Jim McKendry |
The Parrot Society of Australia have organised
a special meeting event for November that will feature none other
than Steve Martin - perhaps the finest and best
known avian trainer in the world. This is an incredible opportunity
to listen to Steve talk and see him in action. The event will include
a PowerPoint presentation by Steve, followed by some hands on demonstrations
with parrots and some Q&A time. This will be Steve's only public
presentation on the east coast of Australia so it's certainly an
event that anyone involved with companion parrots should attend.
To find out a little more about Steve go to http://www.naturalencounters.com
This event will be held on the 27th of November,
2005. Venue
details are yet to be confirmed however it will definitely
be held
in
Brisbane.
There
will be a cost involved with proceeds beyond expenses going towards
the new Conservation, Research & Education Trust that the Parrot
Society has formed.
If you are keen to attend then you will
need to contact:
Stewart Williamson (Parrot Society of
Australia President)
on 07-3289 2523 or president@parrotsociety.org.au
Bookings are essential for this event and
places will be limited.
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Steve Martin & friends |
| Parrot Society
of Australia |

The Parrot Society of Australia
|
Australia’s
Leading Avicultural Society
The Parrot Society of Australia Inc. is a non-profit organization
dedicated to the promotion and dissemination of information on
the breeding, keeping, care and conservation of all parrot species.
Formed in 1980, the society has grown strongly each year, with
a current membership base of more than 1100 aviculturists and parrot
enthusiasts both throughout Australia and internationally. We are
Australasia's leading avicultural society, able to provide our
members with a wide range of resources and services while maintaining
a truly 'club' feel, where member participation in all aspects
of the society is encouraged.
|
Member Benefits
The following comprise a list of just some of the many benefits of becoming a
member: |
| Parrot Society of Australia News - This
is the primary service we offer our members, a high-quality, bi-monthly
magazine packed full of interesting articles, including our Ask the
Experts section, Vet's Corner, and the more recently introduced Companion
Pet Bird series. |
| The Members Only Area - This new area of
our website offers discussion groups (message boards), a Guide to Parrot
Prices, compiled from surveying 1000 of our members, and loads of articles
and news. |
| Avi-Trade - The most popular listing of
birds for sale, wanted or exchange. |
| Monthly Meetings - These are held in Brisbane
on the second Wednesday night of each month. |
| Library - Contains a large range of magazines,
books, video and audio tapes. |
| Sales Table - A comprehensive range of aviculture
items at discount prices |
| Aviary Visits - Society-sponsored group
trips to various "must see" aviaries in south-east Queensland |
| Guide to Parrot Prices - An annual publication
that includes pairs and single birds. |
| Monster Bird Sale - another popular annual
event, 100's of birds sold. |
| Species Kept Information - The Parrot Society
collates information on the various species kept by members, on an
annual basis. |
Join
one of Australia’s most
leading avicultural societies.
Click here to become a member now http://www.parrotsociety.org.au
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Companion
Parrot Workshop Series-The Art and Science of Training Companion
Parrots
By PRISCILLA OLD |
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Published
in PsittaScene Magazine
Publication of the World Parrot Trust, (PsittaScene Vol 16 No 3 Aug
04)
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Photo
by STEVE MARTIN
Showing a young Scarlet Macaw the reinforcer. Working to get him
onto the scale.
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How can I describe a workshop that changed my relationship
with my birds so completely? It was a huge leap, and one that
I never envisioned ahead of time. My involvement with captive-raised
parrots has led me to many educational conferences and exposed
me to what I thought was humane treatment of my parrots. In my
previous training there was basically one-way communication.
I
showed / told the bird what I wanted it to do, and expected the
bird to respond in kind. If that didn’t happen, I applied
one of the many methods I'd learned to get the results I wanted.
The introduction of two-way communication, which is a basic premise
of Positive Reinforcement, has changed my outlook.
I often wondered why one of my birds would come right
out on my hand 95% of the time, but now and then I’d reach
for her/him and receive a zap of a bite? Now I don't ask why, but
I read the body language - the behaviour - and I believe what
my birds are telling me with their body language. I don't try
to analyse “why” - just isolate the behaviour, what
reinforces that behaviour (the consequence), and what transpires
immediately before the behaviour occurs (the antecedent). With
these tools in hand, I can then set out a plan to change the
targeted behaviours that I’d like to change. |
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| I learned these skills
during a workshop offered by Susan Friedman and Steve Martin, which
was titled, The Art and Science of Training Companion Parrots Workshop.
It was offered in two sessions. The first was a 2-day introduction
to Positive Reinforcement. It was presented at an Orlando, Florida
hotel. Steve demonstrated how he uses positive reinforcement training
from his professional training aspect; Susan started us on our road
to understanding the theory and labels from within the scholastic world.
The second session was a 5-day workshop at Natural Encounters’ bird
ranch in Winter Haven (NEI). There, sixteen participants heard lectures
from Susan and Steve each morning and afternoon, followed by two
hours of hands-on training. This combination was great because the
lectures gave us the foundation we needed and the hands-on experience
gave us the training that can't be replaced by the classroom.
Each group of four participants was assigned to one of NEI’s
senior trainers. The first night we were in Winter Haven, Steve offered
a list of birds that were available for training. Each person chose
one or two birds they wanted to work with, and each group chose two
or three as well. Several people asked to work with raptors. I hadn’t
considered this, and truly enjoyed the exposure I had with them.
When I return for another workshop, I will definitely ask for more
work with raptors.
The next morning we decided what behaviour(s) we wanted to teach
our birds. Some of us chose very utilitarian behaviours, while others
chose more complicated ones. The atmosphere at the workshop is very
amiable and non-judgmental, and you can try anything. Some of us
started out thinking we would accomplish this, this, and this; some
of us had no idea what we wanted to try. Some had to change birds;
some had to change what they were trying to do with the bird(s.)
It was very fluid and very positive.
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| Often the birds themselves
determined the behaviours. For example, if you were working with an
older bird that had not been handled for a long time, you might train
him to simply step up - or to come out of the cage - or to step onto
the scale. If you were working with a ground bird, you wouldn’t
try to fly it. Others trained their birds to go into cages and carriers
- to fly in a circle - to wave - or pull up a chain to get a treat
cup - or take an item from the trainer, turn around on a given area
of the perch, run across the perch and drop the item into a dish. This
last chain of behaviours was learned by “Ike,” a Kea (Nestor
notabilis), who won over all our hearts. He learned so quickly that
he constantly amazed us. At one point he forgot to make his turn, so
he picked up the object (a metal washer) from the dish, ran back across
the perch, made his turn, and returned to the dish. As I said, he amazed
us.
My group was lead by Wouter, a young trainer from Holland. After
we worked with each bird we would talk about what had transpired
- what had gone well, and what we might improve upon. The group would
watch each person work with their bird. This helped us see what was
transpiring with others, and would give us the opportunity to see
what was going well and what could be improved. So we weren’t
only learning with our own bird - we were learning as our group worked.
Sometimes we would have a chance to observe another group working,
as well. All of us flew Scarlets, Greenwings, and raptors between
us.
The last afternoon of the workshop was “Show and Tell” time.
It was great fun, and a chance for attendees to show off what they’d
accomplished with a bird they’d never seen until five days
before. I am not comfortable with being in front of a group, but
I managed to show off my little Severe, Velcro, with great success.
And, as the afternoon went on, we saw the results of the week’s
work and thrilled at the overall success of the group. We had many
laughs, especially when the “trained” goats were worked.
As we left the ranch, our group of four from Michigan felt very
positive about the whole experience. None of us had ever been in
such a positive learning atmosphere. None of us wanted to leave,
but we all wanted to have our birds with us. We were going back to
13-degree weather after enjoying 70’s and 80’s for a
week. It was a hard trip home!
Following are some examples of how this workshop has helped my work
with my own birds.....
1 I learned that I had been approaching my birds in a very cavalier
manner. I would reach for them - expecting them to WANT (no 2-way
communication considered) to come out of their cage, for example
- and as soon as a toe was on my finger, I'd be on the move.
2 I’d been approaching them by bringing my hand up from below
- very unsettling to the birds. When Wouter pointed this out to me,
I actually practiced holding my hand flat and offering it from my
chest out toward the bird.
These two things have made a tremendous difference in the security
my own birds display when I pick them up. Besides offering a very
steady hand, I let them step fully onto my hand - with both feet
- before I start moving - constantly being aware of the bird’s
comfort level.
Our birds have become more active since I’ve been working
with them. They are learning to learn, as we were told would happen.
It is very gratifying to see this occur with your own birds.
At NEI they “station” their birds. In every case where
a bird had received any training, it went to the “station” perch
as the trainer approached the cage if it wanted to come out of the
cage. They never take a bird out of its cage while it’s hanging
from the top or side of the cage, and it’s never allowed to
leave the cage on its own. This station training was the first thing
I started working on with my own birds.
Here is an example of my own results while training several of my
birds to go to their “station” perch. However, first
let me explain that I had been shaping “stationing” by
reinforcing the bird:
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| • when it looks at
the perch, |
| • when it puts one
foot on the perch, |
| • when it steps fully
onto the perch with both feet |
| • and when it stays
until asked to step up. |
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| We have a 5-year-old Congo
African Grey (Sparkle.) The pre-workshop Sparkle was: I approached
the cage, opened the door and she would be hanging on the cage door,
or from the top of her cage and put her head down to be petted, or
try chewing on fingers - or strike out if the mood hit her. I would
go into any number of contortions to get her onto my hand to put her
on her play stand. |
| |
Well,
I decided to “tackle” her
with my newly found workshop skills, along with several of our small
birds. I’ve been concerned because I haven’t found a
food treat that works as a reinforcer for her. However, a few days
ago I
went to get her out of her cage, and she went into her usual routine.
I closed the door after showing her a perch I wanted her to stand
on. I held a pine nut near the side of the cage above the perch.
She looked
at the pine nut and me, promptly turned her back, and went to the
top of the cage to hang upside down some more. I went to the next
bird
in the room (another CAG -who went to her station,) took her out,
reinforcing her with a pine nut, and put her on her stand in the
living room.
When I returned to the bird room to get my little Severe out (who
also goes to his station,) there was Sparkle standing on the desired
perch waiting for me to return. I almost shouted with delight - but
I didn't. I calmly went to the cage, stepped her up and walked her
to her stand, with much praise and a pine nut.
There is an ample reading list for anyone who is interested in starting
along the path of Positive Reinforcement with their parrots. One
of the easiest books to read is, “Don’t Shoot the Dog” by
Karen Pryor. It gives great examples of how Positive Reinforcement
is applied in all areas of one’s life. The author is a well-known
dog trainer, and her approach to training follows the Positive Reinforcement
methods.
|
(This article is protected by copyright,
therefore the PRC acquired special permission from the World Parrot
Trust and author to reprint this document.) |
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| Fair Go Farm Animals-By RSPCA
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Intensively farmed sows are unable to turn
around with barely enough room to stand and lie down. For 62 per cent
of pregnant sows in Australia, a 60 cm x 200 cm metal crate becomes
their home during their 16 week gestation period. Denied the ability
to exercise many sows experience severe muscle and bone deterioration.
Stereotypic behaviours manifest as the pigs display signs of emotional
stress and unresolved aggression through continually biting the metal
bars, constant head bobbing and chain pulling.
The RSPCA demands that the 60 cm x 200 cm metal crates be replaced
by straw yards with individual feeders and electronic sow feeders,
and that the amount of time spent in crates be reduced to six weeks.
The RSPCA has developed a set of standards for the production of animal welfare-friendly
pork. Pig farms will only be considered for
accreditation if the animals are well-managed in humane environments
which support the behavioural and physical needs of the animals.
For example dry sow stalls and nose rings are not permitted under
this accreditation scheme. Purchase only organic or free range pig
products, such as RSPCA accredited Ottway Pork through Coles Supermarkets
and quality butchers. Log on to or call for your nearest location.
How
you can help:
Purchase only organic or free range pig products, such as RSPCA
accredited Ottway Pork through Coles Supermarkets and quality butchers.
Log on to www.otwaypork.com.au or call for your nearest location 1800 664 166.
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Australia exports up to 100,000 goats, 850,000
cattle and six million sheep each year through the cruel trade in live
exports.
Exported from Australian cattle stations these livestock face a
gruelling three-month or more sea journey exposing them to starvation,
disease, high temperatures, humidity and suffocation. Often animals
are packed so tightly they cannot lie down, are trampled to death,
or unable to reach feed troughs, they starve.
Once docked outside Australian territory, the Australian Animal
Protection Legislation no longer applies to the animals. Conditions
and treatment can be so bad that in some cases unintentional mortalities
after unloading are higher than during transportation. |
Live export costs Australians valuable jobs and is completely unnecessary!
Overseas markets currently accepting Australian livestock will accept
chilled meat slaughtered in Australia according to their religious
and cultural requirements.
The RSPCA is opposed to the export of live animals for slaughter
or further fattening and strongly advocates the adoption of carcass
only (meat only) trade.
How you can help:
Purchase only free range or humanely produced meat through your
local butcher or supermarket
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More than 10 million 'battery' or 'caged'
egg producing hens across Australia live in cramped, over crowded wire
cages, each with less room than an A4 sheet of paper. These birds are
deprived of their basic natural behaviour; unable to stretch their
wings they lay their eggs on a sloping wire floor that permanently
disfigures their feet.
This confinement results in birds suffering serious muscle damage
from lack of movement, feather damage and skin abrasions from wire
rubbing and feather pecking.
To prevent further injuries young chicks often endure 'debeaking',
the removal of up to half the upper mandible (beak) causing shock
and sometimes death
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The hens are often force-moulted, depriving them of food, water
and light to speed up their moulting process and increase their laying
capacity. When her productive laying period is over she is simply
slaughtered.
Throughout their short life, battery hens are denied
normal animal behaviour and the RSPCA is strongly opposed to this
cruel and unnecessary
practice. The RSPCA supports a number of humane alternatives including
accredited barn laid and free range production methods.
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| To ensure high welfare standards for accredited
egg producers, the RSPCA has developed a set of standards and guidelines
in which hens are free to roam, stretch and flap, have litter to dust
bathe, nests to lay their eggs in and access to fresh air and sunshine.
Any farmer can apply for RSPCA accreditation, and eggs from an accredited
farm are sold with the RSPCA logo.
How you can help:
Look closely at egg carton packaging. Don't buy
eggs labelled 'cage eggs', instead, choose eggs produced in barn
laid or free range systems
or if unsure look for the RSPCA accredited egg cartons. Beware of
misleading labels such as 'vegetarian eggs'. If the box contains
the label 'cage eggs' there is no welfare benefit.
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It's a sad fact that for most of us, a weekend
drive through the beautiful Australian country-side isn't what it used
to be. Once farm animals grazed in open paddocks. Now, concealed in
barns or sheds, thousands of animals have literally become a production
line confined to cramped metal cages. In our relentless effort to compete
globally, our humanity and sense of compassion has been replaced by
cost-efficiency and profit margins. Practices such as the exportation
of livestock, intensive battery egg production and inhumane dry sow
stalls in which pregnant sows are kept, undermine the fundamental rights
of these sentient creatures places a duty of care on people in charge
of animals to take reasonable steps to provide animals with food and
water, appropriate living conditions, treatment of disease and injury,
and the ability to display normal animal behaviour. |
As Australia's peak animal welfare organisation,
the RSPCA with community support, will continue to lobby for bans on
intensive farming practices and the live export of animals, calling
for their replacement with humane and welfare-friendly alternatives.
national ban on tail docking of dogs for non-therapeutic purposes in
October 2003 banning of duck and quail shooting across Queensland in
August 2005.
Welfare triumphs like these ensure that by working together
we can and we will effectively change the future of animal welfare.
The RSPCA is working state-wide and nationally to improve conditions
for farm animals through campaigning, lobbying government and industry.
We aim to positively change consumer behaviour and attitudes towards
animals through education, but we cannot do it alone. Buy only humanely
produced products. If unavailable, request that your butcher or supermarket
stock and promote them. Sign a protest postcard or petition; encourage
friends, family and colleagues to do the same and think carefully
before they make their next purchase. For more information on RSPCA
campaigns or to sign online petitions visit or Join the RSPCA Campaign
Team.
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Write to the Hon Gordon
Nuttall MP, Qld Minister for
Primary Industries and Fisheries, GPO
Box 46, Brisbane,
QLD, 4001 expressing your concerns and outrage and
demand a FAIR GO
FOR FARM ANIMALS. FAIR GO FOR FARM ANIMALS.
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| Positive
Reward Training - By Verna Shannan |
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Basic Training - Part 3
The purpose of this third series of lessons for your bird is to
get him to come out of the cage on your hand, step up onto electronic
kitchen scales to be weighed and then step onto a T-Stand for his
morning and evening lessons.
If you are just beginning and haven’t read my articles in
the previous issues of Talking Birds, I suggest that you do so
before embarking on this month’s lessons.
Your bird should by this time be standing patiently on the bottom
front perch waiting to be taken out on your hand when you approach
at lesson times. He should then be stepping up without hesitation
when you put your hand to his chest to bring him out of the cage
and he should be happy to stay on your hand while you walk away
from his cage.
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| When your bird is comfortable
with all this it is time for you to acquire a very plain T-Stand, I
use
the kind with the moveable tray so I can take the feeding cups off,
drop the tray out of the way for lessons and then bring it back to
serve the bird’s meals. You will also need a set of electronic
kitchen scales which weigh in no more than 5 gram increments. If he
is a large bird you will need a sturdy perch to sit on the scales for
your bird to step up onto to be weighed. If you have a small bird a
wicker basket, with a handle to step onto, will do the trick.
When your bird is happy to stay on your hand for a while, start
moving away from the cage little by little, day by day, while you
keep reinforcing with treats. Gradually have the bird step up onto
the T-stand, which you have close by. Practice having your bird step
up onto your hand and then back up to the T-stand a few times, bridge
and reward every time he follows a command.
Always have the bird step up to things rather than down. Have your
hand in front of his chest to have him step up to you. Then hold
your hand, with the bird at chest level to the perch, so he has to
step up to it in order to leave your hand.
Gradually move the T-stand further away from the cage until the
bird is comfortable with being out of sight of his cage.
NOTE: Never work for more than 5 or 10 minutes at a time. Keep your
patience, stop before either you or the bird gets tired or irritable.
Don’t ever let the bird see you getting irritable. Never, ever,
shout abuse as this will completely alienate your bird.
Next you need to teach your bird to step on and off the scales.
This is a really good way for you to monitor your bird’s health.
Some mornings one or more of my birds might not be excited about
training and I might think they are unwell if my scales didn’t
tell me that their weight is up and therefore they’re not very
interested in the treats today. When this happens I cut their pellets
down a bit for a day or two until they are at a weight where treats
are once more tempting.
You will also know if your bird is off his food and losing weight
for no apparent reason. This tells you that he is unwell and needs
to see an avian vet as soon as possible. The smaller the bird the
less time you have to get medical attention before it’s fatal.
The next thing to teach him is to do a dropping when he first comes
out of the cage so you know that you have about twenty minutes before
he needs to do another one.
The routine should go like this:
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1.
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The bird is on the bottom front perch waiting
calmly when you approach. |
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2.
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Put a newspaper on the floor and a chair
in front of the cage. |
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3.
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Sit down, open the door and offer your
hand saying ‘Step up.’ |
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4.
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Say ‘Good,’ and give him a
treat when he complies. |
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5.
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Bring him out and hold him over the newspaper.
Say ‘Poo Cocky’ (or whatever his name is), wait for the
inevitable. This may take a while the first few times but will happen
spontaneously after a few lessons. |
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6.
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Bridge and reward. |
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7.
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Take him to the scales; tell him to step
up, bridge and reward again. |
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8.
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Note his weight in a diary. |
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9.
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Take him to the T-Stand and practice Step
Ups for a while. |
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| After morning training time,
give your bird his vegetables and fruit on the tray of the T-stand
and after evening training time give him his pellets on the stand.
This way there is never any food in the cage or aviary except fresh
branches and you won’t have a rodent problem. If possible, have
your meals at the same time, parrots are social creatures and love
to eat with their “Flock.”
Remember to offer your bird water while on the T-stand, if he is
out for more than just training, but don’t leave the water
there because it will get spilt and possibly thrown across the room.
Put a toy on the stand to keep your bird amused once the training
sessions and eating are over.
Make your bird’s cage a fun place to go back to, fill it with
fresh branches and a toy. Change the toy every day until you run
out and then start again so that you are constantly rotating them.
Don’t forget to give your bird plenty of scratches (if he
enjoys this) and talk to him when it is behaving well. Unwanted behaviour,
such as screaming for attention, must be ignored and desired behaviour
needs to be rewarded. If your bird does scream, wait for the screaming
to stop, say ‘Good,’ then give him some attention.
To keep you both interested it is highly recommended that you have
an ongoing training program. Parrots are extremely intelligent and
get bored easily. Boredom will send them crazy and all sorts of behavioural
problems may occur.
Remember that your pet bird needs plenty of naps while feeling secure
in his cage so don’t leave him on the T-Stand for hours on
end.
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Please contact
me if you need help with your parrot or parrots and I will send
you a list of my fees and services.
Birdbrains@bigpond.com Mobile: 0407 911
474
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Don’t miss the chance to come to this one-day workshop at the Parrot
Rescue Centre on the Gold Coast.
Topics covered will be:
Understanding bird behaviour,
enrichment,
diet,
housing
& training.
There will be some hands on work with our birds. It will also
involve a tour of the Parrot Rescue Centre and seeing trained
native Australian birds free fly outside.
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Presented by:
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Verna Shannan (Parrot Behaviour Consultant) |
Place:
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Mudgeeraba |
Date:
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5th November 2005 |
Time:
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10am-4pm |
Cost:
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$100 per person or $150 for two people |
For
Bookings please phone: 0407 911 474
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Published
in Talking Birds Australian’s Avian Newspaper- May 05
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| Australia's only newspaper devoted to the
care and breeding of birds - including finches, canaries, parrots,
cockatoos, budgies, softbills, pheasants and waterfowl. It is full
of news, information and feature articles from Australia and around
the world. For more information visit: www.talkingbirds.com.au |
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| Companion
Parrot Support Network |
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What causes feather loss?
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Companion Parrot
Support Network-FREQUETLY ASKED QUESTIONS
1. What might be causing
feather loss in my companion parrot? (Part 1)
As a behaviour consultant I am regularly
asked about feather condition in my client’s birds. The dilemma with such situations however
is that many factors can impact on feather health and feather loss,
including clinical health issues. In almost all cases my advice
is to seek a consultation with an avian veterinarian first. As
with any potential health problem that includes the possibility
of clinical illness, it is essential that a thorough evaluation
of the bird’s nutritional and health status be achieved by
a qualified vet and an assessment as to whether the feather loss
is clinical or behavioural be made. No amount of work on the behavioural
and enrichment side of care will provide the solutions for health
issues directly related to disease and/or malnutrition. Unless
you are certain that feather loss in your companion parrot is behavioural,
seek veterinary advice first. Here’s a few situations where
an avian vet evaluation would be imperative…
1) Feather loss around the head of a bird kept on its own
2) Localised feather loss or damage in a specific area on the
body
3) Feather loss that has progressed to tissue injury
4) Failure of a juvenile parrot to fully develop its feathers
5) Poor general feather condition and/or colouration
6) Rapid loss of feathers resulting in inability to fly
7) Continual state of moult (constant presence of pin feathers)
Your avian vet is the best-qualified person to then offer insights
into the potential clinical causes, which may range from parasitic
problems to localised infection to nutritional abnormalities to viral
and bacterial diseases.
I’ve observed quite a few parrots kept by new parrot owners
who were concerned about the feather loss in their bird only to find
that the bird was actually moulting quite normally. Moulting patterns
differ depending on the species. Some species experience very obvious
seasonal moults (such as Asiatic parrots), some may undergo minor,
but definable moulting periods throughout the year and some species
may maintain regular, but difficult to observe, moulting and replacement
of feathers. In captivity we tend to see the added variable of inconsistent
or altered photoperiod effects on feather health due to the keeping
of birds indoors and in artificial light environments. This can further
cause confusion when determining whether feather loss is `normal’.
Every parrot owner should therefore get into a routine of regularly
monitoring the amount of feathers they observe lying around the cage
each day combined with the general state of feather condition on
the bird. Over time you will develop a picture of what is `normal’ for
your parrot. Combine this evaluation with an examination of the state
of the feathers found in the enclosure. Feather that are fully intact
and undamaged are most likely normally moulted feathers. Observations
of obviously damaged feathers can provide some insights into whether
the situation is outside of the normal spectrum and may suggest the
need to discuss the issue with your avian vet. It’s a good
idea to take the feathers you are concerned about with you when you
go for your consultation.
If feather loss in your companion parrots has been diagnosed by an
avian veterinarian as behavioural then the first stage of developing
a support plan for that bird is to successfully categorise the situation.
In next months newsletter we’ll look at how a behaviour consultant
categorises the different forms of behavioural feather loss and damage
and examine the potential causes. In part three of this Q&A we’ll
then progress to developing some remedial strategies to support behavioural
feather loss and damage.
If you are experience behavioural feather
loss in your companion parrot then contact me to discuss a support
plan that best suits
your situation. Alternatively, why not come along to our next Currumbin
Wildlife Sanctuary Parrot Workshop – Sunday December 4th.
In this workshop we’ll discuss the behavioural and environmental
enrichment needs of parrots that will help to prevent feather problems
developing.
For more information about my workshop experience
or to receive a pamphlet with information about my consultation
services simply contact me via jim@parrot-behaviour.info or via
my website at http://www.parrot-behaviour.info
Kind Regards, Jim McKendry
Companion Parrot Support Network Founder
Parrot Behaviour & Enrichment Consultations
Do you have a parrot behaviour or
care FAQ that you would like me to answer via the PRC Newsletter?
If so then e-mail your question to Zarita via zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
Written By Jim McKendry
Pet Parrot Behaviour Consultant and Co-ordinator of the CPSN.
To access information on the Parrot-behviour.info
website and the CPSN initiatives please visit:
www.parrot-behaviour.info.com
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Don’t
miss your chance to attend the last Companion Parrot Workshop
for the year at Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary.
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Presented
By:
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Jim McKedrey
(Parrot Behaviour Consultant) |
Place:
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Currumbin Wildlife
Sanctuary |
Date:
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4th December
2005 |
Time:
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8am to 3pm |
Cost:
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125 per person |
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For
Bookings please phone: Cait Feldmann, Education Manager CWS,
via phone on 07-5534 0846
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| PRC
TIPS - Dangerous Food |
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A lot of human food is inappropriate
food for a parrot not just because it is unhealthy but also can have
lethal side affects including death. Products with sugar and salt are
not suitable for parrot consumption. It is important to avoid the following
products, as they can be toxic and dangerous if consumed by your pet
parrot; Chocolate, Avocado, caffeine, alcohol, rhubarb and onions |
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| PRC
TIPS - Power Points and Leads |
Exposed electrical power leads
and power points are dangerous if bitten or chewed. Birds like
to explore and chew with there beaks, so it is vital that when
letting a bird roam the house that power points and leads are concealed.
Ideas for concealing power leads and power points are covering
exposed leads with PVC piping and buying power point covers.
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Featured Product of the
Month from the PRC Shop
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PRC would like to provide you with some resourceful information
each month of selected items from the PRC shop. The PRC personally
uses all items provided in the Shop to ensure there safety, durability
and excitement factor. Remember most PRC birds live in aviary environments
and practice there natural chewing ability 24/7 therefore toys
put in our aviaries do not have the same length of durability as
a pet parrot kept indoors. When toys are tested with the PRC indoor
parrots, the toys have a longer durability rate.
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Nut Case
Size Compatibility: Any parrot
from Ringnecks to Macaws will enjoy this product.
Safety Rate: 100% Natural Rubber
Durability: Macaws and Cockatoos of all types
have not been able to break the rubber.
Tips: Treats such as nuts, fresh food and toys
can be hidden inside.
Excitement Factor: This toy is a must have for all bird owners. The
birds spend hours throwing it around and trying to eat the nut placed inside.
This product is available from the PRC
shop, price includes delivery.
All profits from the PRC Shop go directly into helping the daily
operations of the PRC.
Thankyou for your support
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| New
Products on the PRC Shop |
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Vetafarm
Avi-Care
For the Disinfection of all companion
animal environments including cages, pens, equipment and food containers.
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Vetafarm
South American Mix
South American mix is designed to meet the needs of South American
Parrots such as Macaws, Conures and Amazons |
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Member
Moments
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Ruby's
Story
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It all started when I answered
the phone one day and our good friend Ian was on the other end telling
me about an old sulphur crested
cockatoo that needed a home…. And he knew I was a bit of
a soft touch…. And well…. Here’s the bloke’s
number…. give him a call….
And the rest, as they say,
is history.
We drove out to collect Ruby (that’s her new name – we
thought ‘Cocky’ wasn’t quite right for such
a precious gem) and fell in love with her the moment we met
her.
That
was 18 months ago.
Ruby is now 80 years old and is every bit the
grand old dame of our flock/family. Quite rightly, every other
member of our feathered
family treats her with respect. She, in turn, is gentle and has
a wonderful loving nature.
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She absolutely adores Steve
(my other half) and we often joke about how she has finally found herself
a toyboy. He only has to walk into the room and she gets a spring in
her step. She rushes (as fast as her old legs will carry her) over
to him and smothers him in kisses. And the adoration is mutual!
From what we know of her history,
she has never been able to fly – but that hasn’t slowed
her down at all. She loves socialising so we take her with us whenever
we visit friends or family. In fact, we now get invitations which stipulate
we must bring Ruby. She knows that more people means more ‘scratchies’ and
that is one of her favourite things. She loves a head scratch and will
sit happily for hours while we preen her. Sometimes she nods off to
sleep and snores a little, but we never tell her that. At her age she
is allowed to do whatever she wants.
For an old girl, she still has a great set of lungs. She can ‘vocalise’ with
the younger cockatoos and give them a good run for their money.
Some of Ruby’s favourite things include:
- Sitting on her branch in her special tree in the backyard chewing on sticks
and gumnuts.
- Digging in the dirt in the backyard – she really enjoys excavating
and has quite a collection of holes under way.
- And Scotch Finger biscuits – an extra special treat for ‘grandma’
We are absolutely blessed to have such a special soul in our lives
and we are so happy that our precious Ruby is sharing her twilight
years with us.
The End |
| Story
of the Month: |
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November: “Ruby” Naomi Britten has won best story
for the month of November!
How to enter the monthly
draw to win a PRC recommended parrot toy and have your birdies
picture and story part of the PRC Newsletter.
· Fill
out the Parrot Rescue Centre Membership Form
· Write
a story about your feathered friends, weather emotional,
funny or silly
· Send
it to zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
· Include
a photo of your bird as an attachment on the email.
It’s
that easy! We look forward to hearing your stories!
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| PRC
Support Conservation |
| What is Conservation?
Conservation involves protecting remaining habitats as well as
the birds themselves.
What we can do?
- Do not buy a wild-caught bird for a pet.(Don’t feel sorry
for the bird, as the supplier will just replace it with another
if you purchase it)
- Do not buy furniture, building materials and other items made
from mahogany, rosewood, teak or ebony. These are rainforest
woods. Buy purpose grown wood, such as pine.
The Parrot Rescue Centre conservation initiative is in place to
help provide an awareness to all, that if we do not support conservation
organisations, who then will protect our native wildlife. We hope
that our membership and support of these large organisations who
do so much for our eco system, will encourage you to become an
active member also, remember together we can and will continue
to make a difference.
The Parrot Rescue Centre is an active member of the following organisations:
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The
World Parrot Trust
The World Parrot Trust work to achieve the survival of parrot species
in the wild, and the welfare of captive birds everywhere.
To achieve this they:
- Restore and protect populations of wild parrots and their native
habitats
- Promote awareness of the threats to all parrots, captive and
wild
- Oppose the trade in wild-caught parrots
- Educate the public on high standards for the care and breeding
of parrots
- Encourage links between conservation and aviculture
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THE CHARITY
FUNDING PROJECTS AND PROMOTING
EXCELLENCE IN PARROT CONSERVATION AND WELFARE
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Birds
Australia
- Birds Australia is dedicated to the conservation, study and
enjoyment of Australia's native birds and their habitats.
- Birds Australia has joined with bird and habitat conservation
organisations worldwide to form a global partnership called Birdlife
International.
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An Organisation
dedicated to the conservation, study and enjoyment of Australia's
native birds and their habitats.
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| “From
the Avian Vets Desk” - SEX AND YOUR PET BIRD |
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When our pet cats and dogs become sexually mature,
we can prevent them from mating and breeding by having them castrated
or speyed. However, we don’t routinely de-sex birds as the
procedure is expensive, can be risky and is usually only undertaken
in female birds with gynaecological problems. Therefore our pet
birds will have a sex life whether we want them to or not.
Most pet bird owners fail to understand that their newly acquired,
hand-reared, pet will grow and develop like a young child. Just
as a child grows and matures through the various stages of development
to reach sexual maturity, so will the pet bird. The cute, young,
cuddly, baby bird will reach puberty and undergo hormone induced
behavioural changes just like their human, adolescent counterpart.
I commonly get calls from unhappy cockatiel owners. Their sweet
little bird has started to bite and be aggressive and demanding.
These behavioural changes in cockatiels usually occur between nine
months to one year of age. They correspond with the bird reaching
puberty.
When birds become sexually mature, their instinct is to find a
mate. Birds don’t have “casual sex”. They choose
and court a mate, select or build a nest and have sex for procreation
rather than recreation. If there is no “feathered” mate
to choose from the bird will choose a mate from the “human
flock” (i.e. one of the family members).
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Many
behavioural problems induced by sexual frustration occur when a pet
bird chooses a human as his/her mate. When pet birds are inappropriately
bonded to a human mate,
they become frustrated because the human mate cannot fulfil the
role of mating or laying or sitting on the eggs. In these circumstances
birds can be driven by sexual frustration to feather picking or
even self-mutilation (where skin and soft tissue is chewed). They
masturbate and can become aggressive and dominant towards other
family members that they perceive of as a rival.
Female birds that are inappropriately sexually stimulated by their
owners (e.g. on the shoulder, kissing, feeding from the mouth etc)
can become chronic egg layers. Chronic egg laying can cause uterine
prolapse, egg yolk peritonitis, and malnutrition from the depletion
of the body stores of calcium and other nutrients and many other
problems associated with female reproductive organs and “secret
women’s business”.
Therefore, it is very important for the humans associated with
the pet bird to always act as a parent or “older bird” to
the pet rather than as a lover or a mate. I always tell owners
that they should never become a “birdophile” in their
relationship with their pet. Just as there are appropriate and
inappropriate ways of handling children, there are also appropriate
and inappropriate ways of handling pet birds. In other words, owners
should not touch or handle their pet bird in inappropriate or sexually
suggestive ways. They should never allow the bird to eat out of
their mouths or stroke it on the lower back or abdomen if the bird
is presenting. These types of behaviours are “birdie foreplay” and
encourage sexual and mating behaviour in the bird.
Seasonal changes also trigger the sexual instincts of pet birds.
In the wild, heavy rain after a prolonged dry spell will indicate
to birds that there will be abundant food supplies to support a
clutch of offspring. Abundance of food and longer daylight hour’s
signal the appropriate time for breeding. Recently, the prolonged
drought has caused unnaturally dry conditions that have mimicked
the natural environment of many inland Australian birds. The onset
of spring rains after the period of drought has stimulated many
single pet female cockatoos or galahs to lay eggs. I have received
many calls from surprised owners of 20 to 30 year old sulphur crested
cockatoos or galahs that have suddenly laid an egg in response
to these conditions.
Spring time is the mating time for many species of birds. As a
result of increased hormone levels in spring, birds may show behavioural
changes. Males can become more “pushy” and aggressive.
Females become more cuddly and amorous, “presenting” to
their owners. Owners need to be aware of the reasons for these
seasonal hormonal changes in their pets.
It is natural for a bird to reach puberty and chose a mate. It
is unnatural for pet birds to be isolated from their own kind and
restricted to a caged environment. Well meaning owners often provide
a mirror for company. This is the worst thing that they can do.
The sexually frustrated, single pet bird will often try and “bond” with
his own reflection in a cage mirror. “Randy Budgie Syndrome” is
a recognized medical condition where a single, pet, male budgie
endeavours to maintain a sexual relationship with his reflection.
He masturbates on his perch or cage toys and regurgitates food
to his reflection. Some owners consider this activity as a form
of entertainment, while others find it distressing. Such activity
on a constant year round basis can lead to digestive and hormonal
disturbances. Frustrated, single pet birds will often engage in
stereotypic and obsessive compulsive behaviour. Some birds will
continually pace up and down the length of their cage. Others will
acquire a “drinking problem”. This is a form of displacement
activity where the frustrated bird channels its sexual urges into
an obsessive/compulsive activity such as excessive drinking.
The obvious way to counteract aberrant sexual behaviour in pet
birds is to introduce a mate of the opposite sex. There are many “old
wives’ tales” about having a mate for a pet bird. The
most common misconception is that your bird won’t be tame
or talk if it has a mate. This erroneous idea has been disproved
so many times. Instead of having one friendly little bird, you
have two (provided recognized training and behaviour is applied).
When birds have mates of the opposite sex, they have a natural
outlet for their sexuality when they become sexually mature. Many
owners are horrified when I suggest this. “We don’t
want our bird to have babies” is the common response. However
there are forms of “birth control” that can be introduced.
The important aspect from the bird’s point of view is that
they can pair bond with another bird and undergo normal sexual
activity. If and when they do mate and lay eggs, the eggs can be
boiled to prevent any potential chicks hatching, while still allowing
the parent birds to undergo the whole cycle of laying and sitting
on the eggs. It is important to leave the boiled eggs in the nest
for the incubation period. If the eggs are removed, it will stimulate
the female to lay another clutch.
Owners need to have an understanding of bird sexuality as sexual
frustrations and inappropriate bonding with owners can result in
aberrant behaviour that will affect the bird’s physical and
mental health and its relationship with its “human flock”.
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Written by Peter
Wilson
BVSc MACVSc
Avian and Reptile Practitioner
To contact Peter Wilson Click
Here
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| Bird
Boarding |
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Do you need a guilt-free holiday?
Leave your precious birds with understanding
and knowledgeable parrot carers.
We provide quality care for your pet birds
including clean housing, healthy diet, enrichment, interaction
and training (extra fee).
Your bird will not have time to be bored
or sad, so stress and frustration will be less likely.
All funds made from bird boarding are directly
used by the Parrot Rescue Centre to help with caring and maintaining
the sanctuary birds environment.
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| Bird
Boarding Health Check Requirement |
All Boarding Parrots are required to undergo a health check by a qualified
Veterinarian preferably an avian specialist or vet that has a special
interest in birds, please Click Here to find
your nearest suitable vet.
Health check should include:
- Tested negative to Psittacosis
- Tested negative to PBFD
- Faeces Tested negative for worms and bacteria
- Examination suggests that the bird is clinically free
of illness or infection and is considered in sound physical
health by the examining veterinarian
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For
more information please contact:
Zarita Garozzo
Parrot Rescue Centre Co-coordinator on:
Ph: 07 5569 2840
Email: zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
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| Meet
some of the family |
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Species:
Galah
Name: Helmet
Age: 30 years
Sex: Male
About Helmet:
Helmet was surrendered because his owner became to old to care for him.
The cage shown on the right is what he arrived in and lived his whole
life in. He now lives in an aviary with 10 other galahs, and loves to
play in the sand, chew on his branches and swim in his bath tub.
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The home in which
Helmet spent 30 years of his life
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Helmet now playing in his aviary sand |
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| Can
I Adopt a Parrot? |
Yes, if you pass the essential assessment process.
It is vital that the PRC have a assessment process
for people wanting to adopt a parrot, as many of the parrots that
have been surrendered to the PRC have been given away because of
behavioral issues.
The PRC does the best they can through the rehabilitation
process to ensure that these behaviors are controlled although
when re homing these birds we need to ensure the parrot owner has
a good understanding of parrot needs and requirements.
These birds do not deserve to be moved from home
to home anymore, so if you are adopting a bird from the PRC it
is going to be a life long commitment.
Click
here for more information and to apply
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| Links |
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Australian Aviary Life Magazine is available
Bi- Monthly at all Pet shop and Newsagents. It is a resourceful
and informative magazine for all parrot enthusiasts.
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The Parrot Society of Australia
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The Parrot Society of Australia
Inc is considered to be the leading society in aviculture for breeders
and keepers of all types of parrots -- not only native Australian
parrots, but foreign and exotic parrots as well.
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We're PetRescue, a new not for profit website
dedicated to rehoming shelter animals across Australia. |
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| Next
Month Highlights: Feather Plucking-Part 2 and More PRC Parrot Tips |
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If you have received this mailing in error, or if you no longer wish
to receive email from
Parrot Rescue Centre,
please send a blank email,
with:
Remove from Mailing List in the subject
line, to zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
You will be excluded from future mailings
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All
Rights Reserved Parrot Rescue Centre Inc 2005 ©.
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