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Volume 5 July 2005
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PRC Shop Launch, The Cage "Haven
or Prison", Queensland Code of Practice.
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| Parrot
Rescue Centre - Parrot Shop |
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The
Parrot Shop is now OPEN for business.
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The Parrot Rescue Centre is happy to announce that we
now provide quality safe and non toxic toys and accessories for your
companion parrots. All profits made by the PRC Shop are directly put
back into the running costs of the PRC.
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Enrichment and mental stimulation are vital tools in
keeping a well-adjusted, healthy and happy parrot. Parrots are highly
intelligent creatures who love to explore their environment and keep
themselves busy.
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They love to destroy, chew, investigate
and hang off objects, therefore it is essential that toys and enrichment
items are provided in their cages and environment.
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For this reason the Parrot Rescue Centre
only provides you with the safest, healthiest and most exiting products
available for your pet parrots.
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Don't forget to grab a copy of the July
Talking Birds Newspaper to see the article written by Lloyd
Marshall in regards to the PRC Shop and also gain resourceful information
on other topics in aviculture and companion pet parrots.
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For more information on the PRC Shop products please
feel free to email zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com or
to visit our online shop click
here.
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| Chookie
playing with his new Tropical toybox toy! |
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| The
Cage "Haven or Prison" - By Verna Shannan |
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Some people tell me, with great pride,
that their bird doesn’t have a cage but has the run of the
house. I think this is an awful situation. A bird needs a place of
its own, where it won’t be disturbed when it’s trying
to sleep. In the wild most parrots go home to the same place every
evening and roost there for the night. They consider it to be their
place, and they know every sound and whether or not it means danger.
In captivity they need this same kind of familiarity.
A cage needs to be long rather than tall, birds can’t fly up and
down like helicopters. Even if the bird is clipped it will only use the
top part of a tall cage and perhaps climb down to the floor occasionally,
but the middle section is usually wasted. A round cage is not suitable;
birds need corners to hide in. If your bird is in a round cage make sure
it is situated in a corner until you are able to change it.
The bars need to be strong enough to hold the bird and the space between
the bars needs to be small enough that the bird can’t get its head
through.
Parrots are prey animals and worry about danger striking from
above, so cover over the top and part of the back and sides at
all times. Put yourself in the bird’s position and imagine
if you would be comfortable with the situation. If there is something
like a leafy branch in front of the top perch, which obscures the
bird from sight, your pet will feel safer.
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The cage needs to be
put in its permanent spot and fully covered before dark every night.
It is cruel to have a parrot sleeping in a different place every
night, inside some nights, outside others or in the lounge room one
night and in a bedroom or hallway another night. Choose a sleeping
place and put the cage there every night before the bird is in darkness.
A birdcage should never,
ever be put on the floor. This is extremely cruel, as is keeping
one cage on top of another. A bird feels at its most vulnerable when
it is on the ground or has another bird standing over it. They need
height to feel safe and they hate being looked down on.
If your parrot lives in the house put the cage outside for a while
on fine days. Make sure the bird is not going to be terrorised
by cats, dogs or other creatures.
Perches need to be natural branches from native trees and one
perch needs to be thick enough to let the bird sit with its feet
almost flat. This should be as close to the top and as far back
as possible, without the bird’s head or tail touching the
bars. A thin perch is important as well, as it exercises different
muscles, and if this is across the door it will be easier to get
the bird to step up out of the cage without you invading its space.
Perches should be changed when the bark has been stripped from
them.
Food and water dishes need to be placed as far apart as possible
to force the bird to move around and to stop it from making ‘soup.’ Position
them so the bird’s droppings can’t get into them. Water
dishes need to be cleaned and replenished once or twice a day without
fail.
If your bird is a cockatoo or other parrot that is used to feeding
and rummaging on the ground, the bottom should not be bars or wire
but solid and covered with newspaper, butcher’s paper or
cardboard from boxes and cartons, which they love.
The cage needs to have the droppings removed each day. It needs
to be cleaned thoroughly and disinfected with a bird safe disinfectant
like Avisafe once a week.
A pristine, tidy cage is the sign of an unhappy bird. Parrots
need to wreck things, tear them apart and then they like to rummage
through the rubble. Put fresh native branches with leaves, flowers
and seedpods still on them, into the cage every single day so that
the bird is kept occupied.
It is cruel to go crashing into the bird’s space, turning
on lights and making a noise after it has settled for the night.
Imagine if you did this to a baby or even an adult, they would
soon be a nervous wreck.
If you regularly arrive home after dark and want to spend time
with your bird before it settles for the night set a timer to put
a light on before darkness sets in. Always approach your bird carefully
by talking to it before you enter the room.
A bird needs to get up and go to bed as close as possible to the
natural rhythm of the sun. If you are going to keep your pet up
past sunset be aware that this is the same as keeping a small child
up late. Compensate by keeping it dark and quiet longer in the
morning.
The ultimate luxury for a pet parrot is to have an outside aviary
and an inside T-stand or play gym. If your bird is going to live
in an aviary the same rules apply, but an aviary does not need
to be covered at night. However, if you are going to keep your
pet up later than sunset a small cage inside the aviary is the
answer. The bird can be put into the cage at night and covered.
This way of ‘delaying sunrise’ works well for loud
birds as well. Your neighbours will appreciate your efforts, mine
do.
Parrots like to sleep a lot during the day so, with this in mind,
don’t have your bird out of the cage all day.
Make sure that your bird lives in a haven, rather than a prison.
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| Birdbrains@bigpond.com Mobile:
0407 911 474 |
| Published in Talking Birds
Australian’s Avian Newspaper- December 04 |
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| Australia's only newspaper devoted to the
care and breeding of birds - including finches, canaries, parrots,
cockatoos, budgies, softbills, pheasants and waterfowl. It is full
of news, information and feature articles from Australia and around
the world. For more information visit: www.talkingbirds.com.au |
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| Companion
Parrot Support Network |
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An Essential Contributing
Factor to Feather Health and Condition
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Companion Parrot Support Network-FREQUETLY ASKED QUESTIONS
1. Should I bathe my bird? How often and why is it important?
Many of the parrot species popular as companion animals today are considered
`neo-tropical’ parrots which basically means that their natural
distribution is within the tropical latitudes of the globe. These
areas are high humidity and often high rainfall areas, therefore
many parrot species in the wild are presented with frequent or
seasonal opportunities to bathe and shower. Moisture is essential
for long-term feather health and condition and supports proper
preening behaviours so therefore opportunities to have feathers
dampened helps to reduce poor feathering and in the case of flighted
birds will even aid mobility. Species that particularly prone to
feather picking behaviours, such as African Grey Parrots, Eclectus
Parrots and numerous Indonesian species of lories and cockatoos,
rely on regular bathing to stimulate proper preening and feather
care behaviours. The combination of a nutritionally sound diet
and regular bathing opportunities results in an optimum level of
feather condition.
How Do I Go About Bathing My Parrot?
The techniques used to bathe or provide parrots with access to feather
dampening vary and we now consider this essential husbandry role at
a species-specific level. In the wild there are parrot species that
leaf bathe, those that bathe in pools of water and those that wait
for rain showers. Not all parrots appear to appreciate being wet and
yet some relish the opportunity so it is important to make a judgement
as to the technique used depending on the reactions of the individual
bird. Here’s a useful strategy guide for bathing parrots…
· Outdoor Misting:
Use a hose nozzle that caters for an ultra fine mist. Direct
the mist above where the bird is placed and allow it to fall
in a manner that simulates natural rain. It’s a great
idea to do this at the same time as regular cage cleaning – 2
jobs covered at once! Always mist/shower early in the day and
not on windy days where the combination of being damp, cold
and in a draft can potentially contribute to illness in birds
that may have a compromised immune status. If the hose and
water spray has an aversive affect on your parrot then try
simply placing the cage beside a garden bed and mist that area
with incidental water reaching the cage. Gradually extend the
water coverage of the cage in response to a reduction in fear
towards the water.
· Indoor misting:
You can utilise a standard garden spray bottle set to a fine
mist. You may even try different water temperatures and see
if your parrot has a preference. In my experience parrots are
often more responsive to cold water than warm water. Never
direct a spray bottle towards a parrot and always allow the
mist to fall gently from above.
· Leaf Bathing:
Use a section of leafy Eucalypt branch and heavily dampen this
with water. Place this in the enclosure and allow your parrot
to play amongst the wet leaves on the branch.
· Bowl Bathing:
Use heavy, glazed crock bowls with shallow sides and large
diameter for this purpose. Ensure that water depth is not deeper
than allowing the bird to sit in the bowl with a water level
not greater than their flanks.
· The Shower:
It may seem odd to some but many parrot owners regularly take
a shower with their parrot joining in! Special shower perches
are even available on the Internet to give your parrot a place
to perch so these could be worth investigating.
Food for Thought
Without regular opportunities to bathe the feather condition and potentially
even the skin condition of your parrot may deteriorate. Lack of bathing
opportunity has been linked to problem behaviours such as feather picking
and poor preening behaviours. Always take a common sense approach to
bathing – your aim is to ensure that it is non-intrusive, non-stressful,
facilitated only when weather conditions are suitable for feather drying
and the bathing strategy used is species, or even individually, appropriate.
Written By Jim McKendry
Pet Parrot Behaviour Consultant and Co-ordinator of the CPSN.
To access information on the Parrot-behviour.info
website and the CPSN initiatives please visit:
www.parrot-behaviour.info.com
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| Queensland-
Nature Conservation Act 1992- CODE OF PRACTICE- AVICULTURE |
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The Parrot Rescue Centre would like
to make all members, friends and associates aware of the code of
practice for aviculture.
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The Purpose of the Code is to assist in (Section 3)
a) The proper care and welfare of birds in Aviculture: and
b) The promotion of the understanding of the health and nutritional
requirements of all birds; and
c) The realisation of the need for the conservation of viable
populations of indigenous birds in the wild; and
d) Compliance with any legislative requirements of the state or
Commonwealth relating to Aviculture.
It is important for people to realise that there are some birds
in Australia that require a licence to keep, such as all black
cockatoo's, major Mitchell's, Eclectus parrots etc. A lot of the
commonly kept Australian native parrots such as Sulphur crested
cockatoo's, Galah's and Corella's do not require a licence, though
it is essential that you keep records of where the birds where
acquired, as it is illegal to keep birds from the wild.
The main purpose of this article is to make you as pet owners
aware of the general requirements that you have to abide by according
to the
The basic needs of all birds are: (Section 5)
a) Ready access to a balanced diet designed to the individual
species
needs and requirements
b) A supply of clean water and
c) Freedom of movement and ability to exercise and
d) Accommodation which provides protection and safe captive environment
specific for the needs of each individual species
The Parrot rescue centre recommends that pet birds be housed in
large cages or aviaries especially if you do not let your bird
out of there cage to exercise. "There can never be a cage
or aviary to big" (remember wild birds fly for miles a day
with unlimited room available). Please read the article above by
Verna Shannan to receive a more in-depth view on how your bird's
home should be.
(Reference: Queensland Government, Environmental Protection Agency.
Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service- Nature Conservation Act 1992-
CODE OF
PRACTICE- AVICULTURE)
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Featured Product of the
Month from the PRC Shop
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PRC would like to provide you with
some resourceful information each month of selected items from the
PRC shop. The PRC personally uses all items provided in the Shop
to ensure there safety, durability and excitement factor. Remember
most PRC birds live in aviary environments and practice there natural
chewing ability 24/7 therefore toys put in our aviaries do not have
the same length of durability as a pet parrot kept indoors. When
toys are tested with the PRC indoor parrots, the toys have a longer
durability rate.
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Wheelie Great
Toy
This is an exciting toy uniquely made by the Tropical Toybox.
This toy provides endless fun because of the different colours,
textures and shapes incorporated.
Size Compatibility: Any parrot from Ringnecks
to Cockatoos will enjoy this toy.
Safety Rate: This toy is made as all other toys
in the Tropical toybox range with non toxic and safe items. Some
items within these toys, such as the plastic bits and nylon rope
can be destroyed by large cockatoos and large exotics, therefore
it is vital that you be aware of this when your parrot is playing
with it.
Durability: Really durable for the un destructible
types. Some of the PRC Alexandrines and Major Mitchell’s
who can demolish most toys in less than a few days found it hard
to totally crack this toy, some other parrots such as Ringnecks,
Amazons, Eclectus and cockatoos, will keep and play with this
item for months without destroying it.
Excitement Factor: The birds cannot get there little feet and
eyes off this one, every aviary and cage that this toy was introduced
into were loved by all. Everyone’s eyes watched me with great enthusiasm
when bringing this colourful piece into there environments
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Member
Moments
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| From
the Month of May! |
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Chio the Nut
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Our bird is crazy. We know this label is
bandied about to explain any curious behaviour, but our much treasured
little man is certainly not the regular serving of normal. He dances
at wrist-watches and sticks, hides beneath work desks and shirts and
tries to ‘kiss’ anything he can get his beak anywhere near.
We are to be married on the 11th of June this year, yet Chio (Chee-oh)
is our only baby at the moment and will remain so for at least another
9 months. But you must be busting to know what kind of bird he is? Well…
Chio is a green Indian Ringneck Parrot, which is of course the smaller
of the exotics, but for what he lacks in size he makes up in personality.
He is turning 4 this year and it has been a mini-miracle to watch
his neck-ring and crest come to life this past moult. He was certainly
an unhappy boy while the new feathers were coming through but now
he is the prettiest boy around. His green feathers are now almost
fluorescent in certain types of light and his black and red ring
is the envy of all the local Lorikeets.
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Chio used to have a little female friend,
an albino ringneck called Lyssy (short for Alyssum, after the little
white flower) but she was too much for us as a busy working couple
and now lives with everyone at the Parrot Rescue Centre. But Chio is
not lonely and fills his days with lots of chatting and playing, enjoying
native Bottlebrush and also the occasional pig’s ear from the
Pet Barn (dogs only my foot!).
He has learned about 30 words so far, with his own unique combinations
added of course, but apparently Ringnecks can learn up to 250 words over
time, so we look forward to many more words. He comes for drives in the
car and delights all sorts of people out and about when they see him perched
on either of our fronts like a lumpy green necktie. Even though his daddy
loves him very much, he always has been and always will be a complete and
utter mummy’s boy.
I hope you have enjoyed learning about Chio, our lovely little man. Oh
by the way, curious about the name? Well it’s short for Pistachio.
Because… he’s green… and he’s a nut!
Written By Glenn and Lorenna Miles.
Bird Boarding: Chio has previously
boarded at the PRC and was an absolute treasure to look after, as his owners
has mentioned he is a crazy funny little nut. He has one of the biggest
characters in which I have come across in an Indian Ringneck. |
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| From the Month of June! |
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Snuggly “Rocky”
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Our 6 month old Eclectus parrot named Rocky
loves to snuggle up on us at night in front of the telly, He has his
own blanket and actually lies down on his side when we cover him.
He falls fast asleep and is rather bewildered when we wake him to return
to his cage for the night.
He is not quite ready to share his blanket with his sister Bella (a five
month old Mini Fox Terrier) as can be seen.
Written By Gavin Trakman
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| Story
of the Month:
May: “Chio” Glenn and Lorenna Miles
have won best story for May
June: “Rocky” Gavin Trakman won
best story for June
How to enter the monthly draw to win a
PRC recommended parrot toy and have your birdies picture and
story part of the PRC Newsletter.
· Fill
out the Parrot Rescue Centre Membership Form
· Write
a story about your feathered friends, weather emotional, funny
or silly
· Send
it to zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
· Include
a photo of your bird as an attachment on the email.
It’s
that easy! We look forward to hearing your stories!
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| World
Parrot Trust |
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THE
CHARITY FUNDING PROJECTS AND PROMOTING
EXCELLENCE IN PARROT CONSERVATION AND WELFARE
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| The Parrot Rescue Centre has become a Member
of the World Parrot Trust and would like to encourage you all to join
as a member of this amazing charity organisation.
The World Parrot Trust aims are:
· The
survival of parrot species in the wild
· and
the welfare of captive birds everywhere.
To achieve these aims they:
·Restore
and protectpopulations of wild parrots and their native habitats
·Promote
awareness of thethreats to all parrots, captive and wild
·Oppose
the trade inwild-caught parrots
·Educate
the public onhigh standards for the care and breeding of parrots
·Encourage
links betweenconservation and aviculture
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| “From
the Avian Vets Desk” |
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Birds and
Preservation Reflex
Despite their reputation for being delicate, birds
are really “as tough as nails”. However, all too often,
owners of sick birds bring them to the surgery when they are very
sick or dying. They have failed to understand or appreciate the preservation
reflex, which is an important part of bird behavior and flock dynamics.
In the wild, sick or weak birds lose their place in
the flock pecking order and are the first to be attacked by predators.
As a result, sick birds have an in built instinct to protect themselves.
They hide signs of being sick and pretend that they are well in order
to maintain their place in the flock and preserve themselves from
attack by predators. Therefore, the symptoms of many serious illnesses
are hidden until the bird is too sick to pretend any longer.
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It is usually at this stage that owners first
notice that their pet is not well. The bird is weak, fluffed, not eating,
not perching or vocalizing. When a bird can no longer hide signs of
sickness, it is usually very sick or dying.
In captivity, the bird accepts the human family as its flock. Therefore,
pet birds will activate their preservation reflex and hide signs
of sickness from their owners and their "human flock”.
A typical case is the bird with a sore eye. It will never sit with
the sore eye exposed to view. It constantly turns so that its good
eye is always presented to its owners.
However, an observant owner can circumvent this instinctive behavior
and learn to recognize the subtle signals that indicate a bird is
not well. All pet birds should be handled daily and weighed regularly.
This will allow the owner to become familiar with the “feel” of
a well bird (strong, active, vigorous) as opposed to a sick bird
(weak, limp, lethargic). It will allow the owner to pick up on any
significant weight loss. A recent case comes to mind when a very
conscientious cockatiel owner, who weighed her birds daily, was able
to bring her bird to the surgery, when she noticed that its weight
was decreasing over several days. Apart from the weight loss, the
bird appeared well. However, routine faecal tests revealed that it
was suffering from Avian Gastric Yeast infection.
Noticing when a bird stops vocalizing for any period of time is
another sign that something is not right. Often when an owner presents
a sick bird and I begin gathering history as to when the symptoms
were first noticed, they will invariably say “yesterday”.
However, when questioned about vocalizing, they will suddenly remember
that their pet stopped vocalizing a week ago. That was the time when
the bird began to feel unwell.
Checking droppings is another way to monitor the health of your
pet. The substrate of the cage should be cleaned daily. For this
reason, I recommend newspaper as a simple and effective way of keeping
the floor of the cage clean. When changing the paper each day, make
sure that the droppings are checked. All owners should become familiar
with the appearance of normal droppings. Any continuous, abnormal
droppings should be investigated by your avian veterinarian. Food
intake should also be monitored daily. Any decrease in appetite should
be a cause for concern.
A very informative book published by Australian Birdkeeper, “A
Guide to Basic Health and Disease in Birds” has a detailed
section on Signs of Illness in Pet Birds. I usually recommend this
book as essential reading for pet bird owners.
Don’t wait until your bird is showing signs of serious illness.
Circumvent their preservation reflex and learn to pick up on the
subtle signs that indicate your pet is not feeling well. Diligent
observation can save the life of your pet.
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Written by Peter Wilson
BVSc MACVSc
Avian and Reptile Practitioner
To contact Peter Wilson Click
Here
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| Bird
Boarding |
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Do you need a
guilt-free holiday?
Leave your precious birds with understanding
and knowledgeable parrot carers.
We provide quality care for your pet birds
including clean housing, healthy diet, enrichment, interaction
and training (extra fee).
Your bird will not have time to be bored
or sad, so stress and frustration will be less likely.
All funds made from bird boarding are directly
used by the Parrot Rescue Centre to help with caring and maintaining
the sanctuary birds environment.
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For more information
please contact:
Zarita Garozzo
Parrot Rescue Centre Co-coordinator on:
Ph: 07 5569 2840
Email: zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
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| Meet
some of the family |
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Species: Rainbow
Lorikeet
Name: Missy
Age: 4 years
Sex: Female
About Missy: Missy came to the PRC because her
owner had commitments overseas. Missy was heavily bonded to her
previous owner and showed no interest in other birds. Missy sadly
still plucks her feathers, but now lives in an aviary with other
lorikeets and is bonded to a male lorikeet. It took her a long
time (over a year) to accept other birds, but finally with patience
and trial and error Missy is really happy hanging with her boyfriend
and other friends.
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| Can
I Adopt a Parrot? |
Yes, if you pass the essential assessment
process.
It is vital that the PRC have a assessment process
for people wanting to adopt a parrot, as many of the parrots that
have been surrendered to the PRC have been given away because of
behavioral issues.
The PRC does the best they can through the rehabilitation
process to ensure that these behaviors are controlled although
when re homing these birds we need to ensure the parrot owner has
a good understanding of parrot needs and requirements.
These birds do not deserve to be moved from home
to home anymore, so if you are adopting a bird from the PRC it
is going to be a life long commitment.
Click
here for more information and to apply
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| Re-homed Birds for June |
Lockie (Female Rainbow Lorikeet) was a surrender to the
PRC, because she was very noisy and the owner was receiving complaints
from neighbours. Lockie has now been rehomed to a lovely couple who
own a male Rainbow Lorikeet.
Lockie and Kramer now live happily together, tolerating each other
at this point.
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Lockie playing on her play gym (Play gyms are a must
have item when owning indoor pet parrots).
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| Shortie (Eastern long bill Corella cross short bill)
was a surrender to the PRC, who was found roaming around in someone’s
yard, looking for food. The lost parrot was sadly not claimed, after
an extensive search to find his owners.
He now has been adopted by a very dedicated pet parrot owner who
has him living in a large aviary with other parrots.
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| Next
Month Highlights: |
| Carer Stress "Impact on Birds", FAQ Wat does
my birds body language mean? |
All
Rights Reserved Parrot Rescue Centre Inc 2005 ©.
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