"To Sleep, Per Chance to Dream "By Gary Colvin

    When I first go to see an owner about a behavioural problem, apart from wanting to rule out any underlying medical problems, or dietary concerns, I next want see where the parrot is put to sleep at nights, and know the times and routines that are set.
    This is a really important factor that is sadly over looked in many cases and if not being performed correctly, can manifest itself in a myriad of behavioural problems.
     Sadly, many companion parrots living inside the home with us are sleep deprived by the extended hours of artificial lighting and noise present in our homes. This can cause some parrots to show forms of aggression, as the poor little guys are just worn out and tired and grumpy. A large percentage of the human race now suffers from sleep deprivation, so it is no wonder that companion parrots in these homes also do. Sometimes this lack of sleep can cause problems with screaming, being withdrawn, going of their food, or generalized anxiety.
    As always, we must look at how parrots live in the wild. Parrots in the wild will wake at first light, dawn, fly from their roost during the day to forage for food and water, then, as dusk approaches, return to their roost to settle in and sleep during the night hours.

Unfortunately, in most households, we do not duplicate this and most birds will still wake when it becomes light, but when it comes to their bed time, this is the time when most households are at their busiest. As dusk approaches, families are just arriving home, dinner is being made, stereos and televisions are blaring, and even foot traffic, conversations and general movements are at their peak. A lot of parrots are waking at dawn, which can vary depending on the time of year from 5.00am to later, and then being kept awake till 9.00pm, 10.00pm, or even later. Some birds I have seen have sometimes been getting as little as 5 hours sleep a day. An animal in the wild would normally get around 10 to 12 hours asleep a day, so you can now see the gross shortage that is occurring. We all know that in our lives, if we continually miss out on sleep, we may be able to function for a while, but eventually the lack of sleep is shown in our personalities being less tolerant of other people, or performing tasks and memory can become impaired. Even though the full function of sleep is not exactly known, and many studies are still being done, it is mainly agreed that it serves as a regenerative and repair time for our bodies and, maybe even a sorting, shuffling and deleting   period of information in our brain. If we continue to neglect sleep, we can eventually suffer medical problems, and this is no different with our parrots.

Parrots will rest and sometimes nap during the day, when not feeding, foraging and preening, which all take up most of a parrots waking hours, but being a prey animal and in the absence of a flock as a warning device of impending danger, I am not sure how deep or long these naps are and can vary greatly. It is that need of darkness and safety that can supply our parrot’s security, and the bird’s natural biological clock, that can supply the best conditions for a sound and restful sleep. If our parrots are housed in outside aviaries, away from main traffic areas, they will be able to regulate their sleep naturally in tune with the rise and setting of the sun, but if kept indoors we must be aware of supplying an appropriate area away from noise and in an area that can supply darkness, just covering the cage isn’t enough.

    As discussed in previous articles, I like a two cage set up. A day time cage where the parrot can be moved to each morning and forage for food and play, before returning to its night-time cage for sleep. Hopefully the day time cage will be as large as you can possibly supply and afford, in a position where it will receive fresh air, some direct sunlight for your parrot’s health, but have protection from the elements and any predators. In this cage you can supply natural branches, preening and bathing objects and situations for your parrot to forage for its food during the day.
     Your parrot’s night-time cage, doesn’t necessarily have to be as large as its day-time cage, but it should still be large enough for your parrot to stretch it’s wings out and move around comfortably and should be positioned in a quiet, no traffic, or as little as possible, area away from the main hustle and bustle of the house. This cage can be covered to ensure darkness, or just situated in a room that can be blackened out with curtains. If you are covering the cage, please remember to allow for adequate air movement during the warmer and more humid months. Covering a cage during the Winter months can guard against cold, but if your parrot is too stuffy and hot during Summer, it could affect his health and also cause him to moult excessively.

    By blocking out the natural light first thing in the morning, you can sometimes fool your parrot into sleeping in later, which means that you can keep him up a little later in the evening when you get home, so you can both interact with each other. This now means that he can stay up a little later with you at night, while not missing out on the much needed sleep. Try to keep your parrots sleeping patterns as close to nature as possible, but slight variations so that you can both share fun times together, mean that you can have time together while still supplying adequate sleep time.
    This two cage set up can also help with loud, noisy parrots that naturally do their dawn screeching, and are causing problems for their owners or neighbours. Delaying their dawn welcome, till the rest of the world is awake can be a simple compromise to prevent possible problems. Putting a parrot in a darkened room as form of punishment should never be used and extending the time spent in darkness beyond what a parrot naturally does in the wild, is never an answer to any problems, but supplying your parrot with enough sleep could make your parrot much happier.
        

The PRC Parrot Shop will be attending the 2009 Spectacular Petacular and State Bird Fair and Expo. We are hoping for another two great events, with lots of support by our members.

• Quality Ceramic Mugs
• Mugs have some spectacular art work on them by Kasey Taylor who is a well known wild life artist.
• Designs available are Macaws, Cockatiels, Cockatoos and Eclectus parrots.

FREE OFFER!

ORDERS OVER $60 will receive one Adjustable Perch FREE

(Offer ends on 28th February)

• Natural Eucalyptus Timber Perch that can be attached to any part of the cage. Provides lots of natural chewing enrichment.
• As seen in example the perch can be attached to your parrot cage door for easy access to your parrot.
• The Perch is 30cm long and can vary in diameter from 3 to 5cm.
• Please specify in Pay pal comments if you have a small, medium or large Parrot.

Question...

I'm wondering how the intelligence level may differ between large parrots vs. small parrots? For example, is an African Grey "smarter" than a Lovebird or a Parrotlet?
From Asa.

G’day Asa,

Thought provoking question – I’m glad you asked J. Debate, generalisations and assumptions about the comparative `intelligence’ level of different parrot species has long been an issue that seems to generate some poorly considered discussion amongst parrot keepers. Most of what I read on parrot intelligence has a tendency to set criteria for making judgements on perceived `intelligence’ that has little relevance to what would be considered `intelligent’ for that species in the wild. As a wildlife biologist, if I have to consider the `intelligence’ of different parrot species then it’s in an ecological and environmental context – relevant to the behaviour of the individual in the wild. Unfortunately, the criterion for intelligence usually set by parrot owners is often highly anthropomorphic and I rarely see any discussion of parrot intelligence accompanied by a suitable and appropriate definition. Perhaps we can consider that here. A quick look at a variety of available definitions for intelligence suggest that intelligence can be defined as an ability to comprehend, understand, benefit from experience, solve problems, use language and learn. These are all skills that every parrot, regardless of the species, needs to employ to be successful in their natural environment. When we appreciate the huge variation in ecological contexts that the 350+ different parrots species that we are concerned with come from, we realise that all have learned how to solve the key problem of surviving and succeeding to the next generation. That, for me, is my best indicator of `intelligence’ – success of an animal in its natural environmental state. Drop me off somewhere deep in the jungles of South America, or the arid inland of Australia, and I’m not sure that I’d last more than a couple of days, regardless of how `intelligent’ I might think I am in my own environment. This realisation should challenge us to reconsider some of the judgements we make about perceived `intelligence’ levels of parrots when we keep them in environments that fail to facilitate the expression of natural behaviours.

In captive environments we have a tendency to place demands on parrots and make judgements about their `intelligence’ in contexts that often have a huge set of unrealistic expectations embedded in them. These captive contexts often also fail to provide the most appropriate conditions, stimuli and teaching practices that are required to set the bird up to succeed. What might be best to question is the `intelligence’ of the keeper and whether or not they have provided the environmental conditions required to facilitate their parrot demonstrating its capacity to engage effectively with its surrounds, whether that be in performing a trick, extending their vocabulary or simply flying to the hand on cue. The parrot, whether it’s an African Grey, Lovebird, Budgerigar or Hyacinth Macaw, has the capacity to learn – do we have the capacity to be the good teacher they need and set up the environment they require for their `true’ intelligence to shine?

Kind Regards, Jim McKendry
http://www.pbec.com.au

Read more of Jim’s Q&A responses via his work on the `Ask the Experts’ Panel at the World Parrot Trust Website – www.parrots.org Support worldwide parrot conservation and become a member of the WPT today!

Need advice and support to achieve your Companion Parrot behaviour, training and enrichment goals?

Jim proudly supports the PRC by purchasing Parrot Toys and Accessories from the PRC Parrot Shop, Answering any of your FAQ and continually referring clients to the PRC Services and Programs. We greatly appreciate Jim's support. Please show your thanks by showing your support of Jim's initiatives.

For more information about Jim McKendry please visit:

www.pbec.com.au

The Parrot Rescue Centre spends a lot of time and resources in doing what is best for the parrots in its care by ensuring the birds are regularly vet checked, given fresh food, enrichment, clean aviaries and cages, providing natural habitats and by building larger enclosures.

The PRC is not a large organisation, it is privately owned and managed by Zarita, volunteers and Family. To help fund the PRC Zarita has created the PRC Parrot Shop, Bird Boarding services and the Sanctuary Program and also relies on the generosity of the public. The PRC does not receive any financial assistance from the government or other large organisations.

We need your help and support to continue to provide a high standard of care to the PRC parrots and also to continue to provide the Website, Newsletter and other services such as Sanctuary, Rescue, Rehabilitation, Adoption and Placement programs.

Thankyou for your kindness.

Yours truly,

Zarita Garozzo

Thankyou for your support.

Story of the month of January/February - ORLANDA! by Harvey Anderssen

Orlanda’s Story

We brought Orlanda on Sunday 17th December 2006. We couldn't’t bear the loss of Valentina, a “little corella”, then two years old, who’d entered our lives as a 4 month old, and with whom we’d shared the excitement and hazards of a young cockatoo experiencing the open skies. She’d been missing only one day, but as that hadn’t happened in 6 months of daily free-flying, we feared for her death. We consoled ourselves by buying Orlanda.

Orlanda was a garella, a GAlah-coRELLA cross. She was more like her galah father than her long-billed corella mother, but was the closest match to our lost darling Valentina possible that day. She came from a dealer, unlike Valentina, who came direct from the breeder, and so we have never discovered where and how she was bred.  The Sydney dealer, who had mistakenly named her “Elvis”, found that she had hatched exactly three months earlier as an only chick. From the start, she was so very different to Valentina, more capable and self assured, and much less curious and playful. Only warm overcooked carrots triggered the baby feeding response. And her greedy frenzied gobbling of sunflower seeds, a food that Valentina refused, was quite extraordinary.

We had Orlanda for only one day before we re-located Valentina. We then had two ‘toos that just didn’t get on. Valentina wanted only us, and fluffed herself into a white ball, trying to scare the not so babyish Orlanda. But always retreated in the face of the baby newcomer’s assertiveness. Holding both risked being bitten. Valentina’s threats would culminate in bites that went nowhere near Orlanda, but all too often got my fingers. On her own, however, Orlanda would submissively put down her head for scratching.

We shamelessly used Orlanda’s greed, especially for sunflower seed, to manage and train her.  They were the reward that encouraged her to fly across the room to our arm. When she gave joyful little aerobatic twists before landing, we knew this flying to us was becoming a pleasurable habit, and forgot the rewards. With Orlanda inside, Valentina continued her daily flights with us outside, exchanging calls as she flew. Inside, Orlanda seemed to participate by loudly and excitedly shouting out her presence to us. Her occasional but incredibly fast flying through the hallways and rooms of the house paralleled the outside aerobatics of Valentina.

The ‘toos continued in a love-hate relationship. Each would miss the other if absent, but they couldn’t be left free together.  Yet they learnt from the forced relationship.  Valentina learnt to share our companionship with another parrot. Orlanda, forever watching Valentina, copied both her good and bad habits.

It was last December when we started accustoming Orlanda to the outdoors. In the evening, just before dark, we’d let her, free on our hand, eat the seeds of the Japanese maple just outside the back door. With darkness, we’d bring her in, with Valentina, on their cages. It became habit, although not before some dramatic escapades. Orlanda did not go far on such occasions, and was easily tracked, by her distinctive call and pink head, to high branches in neighbourhood trees. Her retrieval, however, was always challenging, particularly since she was never in a hurry to move.  Here Valentina helped, flying up past Orlanda, and seemingly inviting her to follow. Ultimately, after significant effort, we’d be all back together again. Significantly, the successful reunion depended heavily on the willingness of our escaped Orlanda to eventually return.

This story is to celebrate Orlanda graduating as a confident free-flying member of our flock. Orlanda and Valentino have now been free-flying together for a month, shouting to each other as they do their aerobatics, joyfully swooping down to us but then, at the last moment, swinging away, as if to tease us, the non-flying members of their flock.

Before graduation, Orlanda went free flying at a beachside holiday home. Part of that experience was being chased by a territorial butcher bird.  We were concerned that Orlanda might fail that test, but no, our ‘toos seemed quickly to learn that butcher birds were less to fear than the currawongs that patrolled their home skies. Those local birds did not stop our ‘toos flying and returning.

Orlanda now seems more adventurous than Valentina. Earlier this week, three galahs flew over, calling, as I and the ‘toos went out to collect the morning newspaper. Valentina gave an acknowledging chirp, but otherwise ignored them, no longer the adventurous two-year old. Orlanda, however, responded as Valentina had once, flying up and away with them for a long few minutes, before returning. Two days latter, while Orlanda was flying with a young lone sulphur-crest, Valentina was shouting at it from the safety of my shoulder. We seem to have gone full circle, with Orlanda replacing Valentina as the fearless adolescent that brings home trouble.

Nevertheless, whatever the future might hold, Orlanda’s passage from parrot babyhood to a free-flying flock member is worth marking with a story.

How to enter the monthly draw to win a PRC recommended parrot toy and have your birdies picture and story part of the PRC Newsletter.

· Fill out the Parrot Rescue Centre Membership Form
· Write a story about your feathered friends, whether emotional, funny or silly
· Send it to zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
· Include a photo of your bird as an attachment on the email.

It’s that easy! We look forward to hearing your stories!

Wildlife and avian veterinarians are frequently confronted by well-meaning members of the public who have found a “tame” lorikeet beside the road, in their back yard or in the local park. However, very rarely is it a “tame” lorikeet (i.e. an escaped pet), more often it is a wild bird that is suffering from misadventure or disease. The escaped pet lorikeet is easily distinguished from the “sick”, wild bird.  The escaped pet often has a leg ring or a wing trim or it talks. The escaped pet will fly into your house and land on your shoulder. Whereas, wild lorikeets both adults and juveniles that are able to be picked up by humans, are victims of trauma or infections.

Adult lorikeets have orange beaks and have long, fully developed, flight and tail feathers. Lorikeets fly swiftly and don’t recognize panes of glass.  Many adult lorikeets found on the ground are often suffering from concussion from having hit a window at full speed.  If you witness a lorikeet hitting a window pane and falling, concussed, to the ground, the best first aid is to put it into a cardboard box.  The enclosed box is warm, dark and quiet and the bird can safely recover consciousness without hurting itself further.  A lot of concussed lorikeets resume consciousness within 10 to 15 minutes and fly away as good as new.  If the bird remains limp or disoriented, you will need to seek appropriate veterinary attention.

Just as adult lorikeets often fly into windows, they also can fly low over highways and main roads and are hit by cars.  This is another reason why wild birds are able to be approached and handled by humans.  Lorikeets hit by cars need to be taken to a recognized wildlife hospital, your local vet or wildlife carer.

It’s not only the adult lorikeets which encounter misadventure that puts them in the hands of humans fledgling lorikeets also frequently come to grief. Juvenile lorikeets have dark beaks and contrary to popular belief also have fully developed wing and tail feathers.  These young birds are often found by members of the public when they run into problems during their first flights.  If you do find a young lorikeet, check that it does have fully developed wing and tail feathers and that it is uninjured. If this is the case, it will fly away to follow the adults in the flock.

However, one of the most common reasons why people feel that they have found a “tame” lorikeet is that many juvenile lorikeets are affected by psittacine beak and feather disease syndrome or circovirus. Young lorikeets suffering from this condition do not grow their long flight feathers or long tail feathers.  They appear to be “stubby” or “cut off” when compared to their adult counterparts.  As a result they cannot fly.  They are often called “runners” because they run along the ground. This disease is a very contagious, viral infection.  It can be transmitted to other birds through feather dust, droppings and crop secretions and it cannot be treated or cured because it is a virus. It is resistant to most disinfectants. Many people who rescue these affected birds are unaware of the seriousness of the disease because after a few months, the “runner” lorikeet appears to recover and regrow the lost feathers.  However, the danger is that these birds are probably carriers of the disease and will affect other birds that they are placed in contact with.  If you do find a “runner”, juvenile lorikeet, take it to your local wildlife hospital or local veterinarian.  Unfortunately, these birds should be euthanased to prevent the spread of the disease.

By all means assist sick or injured wild birds. However, be aware that they are sick or injured and not “tame”. The best equipment for handling wild birds is a towel and a cardboard box.  The towel enables you to pick up the bird without being bitten and the cardboard box is a dark and safe temporary resting place for the bird until suitable help is available. Always contact your local vet, wildlife organization or registered wildlife hospital (e.g. Currumbin Sanctuary Wildlife Hospital or Australia Zoo Animal Hospital).  It is illegal to keep a wild bird as a pet.  Don’t be tempted to make a pet of the cute little Juvenile “runner” lorikeet.  You will be endangering any other bird that you or it comes into contact with. Injured and sick lorikeets or any other wild birds should be treated professionally and appropriately and released back into the wild wherever possible.

Written by Peter Wilson
BVSc MACVSc
Avian and Reptile Practitioner

To contact Peter Wilson Click Here

This article will be published in Paws and Claws Journal

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• Tested negative to Psittacosis
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