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Volume
10 December 2005
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Steve Martin
Event
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| Steve
Martin - A Great Event! |
The Parrot Rescue Centre would like to say a big
Thankyou to the Parrot Society of Australia for organising the
special event on the 27th November staring Steve Martin. All that
attended have gained a lot of knowledge and inspiration from his
presentation.
About Steve Martin:
"
One of the best-known trainers
in the world, Steve Martin has pioneered the art of training
a variety of birds and animals
through positive reinforcement. A master falconer for over 30
years and a parrot trainer for more than 35, Steve has produced
and consulted on bird and animal behaviour at over 35 zoos and
parks on four continents. Steve's training experience includes
well over 100 species of birds and over 25 species of mammals.
He is a member of the California Condor Recovery Team and behaviour
consultant several zoos and the Hawaiian Hawk and Hawaiian Crow
projects. He is also the founder, past President, and President
Elect of IAATE (International Association of Avian Trainers and
Educators). His free-flight bird shows have been enjoyed by millions
of people. Steve is well-known for his educational program philosophy
which is to engage, inspire and empower his audience.” (http://www.naturalencounters.com
)
Some important points that Steve Martin covered at his presentation
which we would like to share with those that could not attend
are:
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Relating pet companion parrot behaviour to wild parrot behaviours
(as all parrots are not domesticated they are wild by nature)
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Positive Reinforcement is the key to training
and behaviour management rather then punishment or negative
reinforcement.
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T here is no such thing as
height dominance, parrots feel safer when up high this
is why they like to be above everything rather then them wanting
to
dominate us.
For all that are interested Steve Martin
does provide a Companion Parrot workshop in Florida. The dates
for the next set of workshops are January 21st and February 4th
please visit http://www.naturalencounters.com for more information.
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Steve Martin & friends |
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| Positive
Reward Training - By Verna Shannan |
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Basic Training - Part 4
The purpose of this series of lessons for your bird is to get
him to go into a carrier without hesitation when asked to do so
and to be wrapped in a towel without being fearful. When a bird
is sick he is very stressed and fragile so we don’t want
to stress him even more if we can help it. Picking him up in an
unfamiliar towel, putting him into a carrier or box and taking
him in a car to the avian vet is all very stressful if he is not
used to this treatment. If all of these things are familiar to
him, his chance of survival will be much greater. It would be even
more stressful if you had him out in the car watching all the other
cars going past.
If you are just beginning and haven’t read my articles in
the previous issues of Talking Birds, I suggest that you do so
before embarking on this month’s lessons.
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Your bird should, by this
time, be standing quietly on the bottom front perch waiting to be
taken out on your hand when you approach at lesson times. He should
then be stepping up without hesitation when you put your hand to
his chest to bring him out of the cage and he should be happy to
stay on your hand while you walk away from his cage and into other
rooms with him. He should be comfortable as you walk past mirrors
and flapping curtains etc. He doesn’t fly off when a bird or
plane flies overhead or a car backfires outside. He steps up onto
the scales when asked and then on and off a T-Stand. Now you need to teach your bird to step onto a table and eat his
meals there. Put an open carrier on the table and if the table has
a glass top cover it with a towel first.
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1.
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After you have put your bird through his
normal routine get him to step up onto your hand. |
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Pick up his fruit and vegetables, which
you have already prepared, and place them on the table as far away
from the carrier as possible. |
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3.
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Encourage the bird to step up onto the table
near his food bowl and then leave him to eat the food. If he won’t
step onto the table, because it is unfamiliar, put some of his favourite
treats onto the table while he watches you and try again. If he still
won’t do it put him away for an hour before trying again. Keep
repeating this until he goes onto the table. |
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4.
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Once he is happy to go onto the table without
hesitation, and this may take a few days, start moving the food very
slightly closer to the carrier. Little by little, day by day, depending
on the confidence of the bird, place the food nearer and nearer until
it is just inside the carrier. Never increase the criteria until the
bird is comfortable with what he is doing. |
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Once he is eating happily with his head
in the carrier start placing the food a little further back into it
until the bird has to get right inside to get the food. |
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6.
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Once he is staying in the carrier to eat
the whole meal, rather than grabbing a bit and running out with it,
start closing the carrier door and opening it again. Then leave it
shut a second longer and so on until the bird is happy to stay in there
with the door shut. |
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7.
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Once you are at this stage you can stop
feeding meals in the carrier and simply throw in a few treats to entice
the bird to go in and stay there. Then you can start walking around
the house with the bird in the carrier and eventually take him for
outings in the car. |
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| At first you need to do carrier
training twice a day, then once a day, then once every second day and
so on until you only get the carrier out once a week for training so
that the bird doesn’t forget and become fearful of it again.
Now you can start towel training so that when you visit your avian
vet you can hand your bird to him wrapped in a towel, if he needs
to examine him, without sending the bird into a frenzy of terror. |
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Choose a towel as close to the colour of
the bird as possible. This is because there may be a chance that the
bird believes it is another bird’s wing around him once you start
wrapping him up. Always use the same towel so that it becomes very
familiar to him. |
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Put the towel in the carrier with some treats
on it and get the bird used to walking on it. |
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Put the towel over the T-Stand and get the
bird to step up onto it. |
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Start touching the bird with the towel,
bridge and reward. |
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Gradually, as the bird becomes accustomed
to the touch of the towel, start leaving it a bit longer before taking
it away. |
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Get down on the floor with the bird and
start to cover your head first and the then bird at the same time with
the towel. Remove the towel very quickly at first, bridging and rewarding
all the way. |
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When the bird is comfortable with that cover
him but leave your head out. |
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Call the bird’s name until he finds
his way out of the towel. |
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9. |
Call ‘Good,’ praise and reward
the bird enthusiastically. |
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10. |
Again play this game every day at first
and then cut it down to once a week to keep it fresh for the bird. |
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| Always start every new step
slowly and do it often. Keep up regular practice sessions. Never work
for longer that ten minutes a session. Build in lots of sessions when
you have time and don’t ever lose your patience or your temper. |
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Please contact
me if you need help with your parrot or parrots and I will send
you a list of my fees and services.
Birdbrains@bigpond.com Mobile: 0407 911
474
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Don’t miss the chance to come to this one-day workshop at the Parrot
Rescue Centre on the Gold Coast.
Topics covered will be:
Understanding bird behaviour,
enrichment,
diet,
housing & training.
There will be some hands on work with our birds. It will also
involve a tour of the Parrot Rescue Centre and seeing trained
native Australian birds free fly outside.
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Presented by:
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Verna Shannan (Parrot Behaviour Consultant) |
Place:
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Mudgeeraba |
Date:
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7th January 2006 |
Time:
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10am-4pm |
Cost:
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$100 per person or $150 for two people |
For
Bookings please phone: 0407 911 474
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Published
in Talking Birds Australian’s Avian Newspaper- May 05
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| Australia's only newspaper devoted to the
care and breeding of birds - including finches, canaries, parrots,
cockatoos, budgies, softbills, pheasants and waterfowl. It is full
of news, information and feature articles from Australia and around
the world. For more information visit: www.talkingbirds.com.au |
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| Companion
Parrot Support Network |
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What causes feather loss?
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FAQ by Parrot Behaviour & Enrichment
Consultations
1. What might be
causing feather loss in my companion parrot? (Part 2)
In last month’s edition of Q&A we focused on the initial
evaluation of feather loss and the importance of seeking avian
veterinarian advice as the first point of reference if concerns
arise about the feather condition of your parrot. Once an evaluation
has been made by your avian veterinarian that the feather loss
is behavioural, it’s time to focus on the potential causes
and underlying issues that may have led to the condition.
Firstly, at a surface level we can usually categorise feather
loss and damage into:
*Feather Picking: Damage to the feathers via improper preening
that does not result in their complete removal.
*Feather Plucking: Complete removal of feathers from the body.
In some circumstances it may even be a combination of the two,
where the feathers are first excessively preened, resulting in
damage to the feather barbs, and then removed completely. Other
terms occasionally used are feather mutilation and feather destruction.
These are essentially synonymous with the above.
I’ve personally managed and consulted with feather picking
and feather plucking in companion parrots for more than 10 years
now, including parrots in my own flock. Over that time I have been
able to establish some general correlations between the observable
feather damage characteristics and the most likely causes. In every
situation however, a thorough examination of the environment and
all of its dynamic components must be made.
Feather picking and feather plucking is considered a `stereotypical’ behaviour,
and by definition is not a normal and functional behaviour. All
behaviour however, functional or otherwise, is linked to the environmental
context. We need to acknowledge and appreciate that this is a captive
phenomenon that is not observed in wild parrots. For a wild parrot
to remove or damage its own feathers is equivalent to suicide.
The accountability for self-induced feather damage in captive parrots
ends with `us’ as ultimately, this behavioural problem is
an indicator of our failure to provide the captive conditions and
experience conducive to proper behavioural health. Sometimes achieving
an optimum captive environment can be extremely difficult; indeed
despite my own best efforts, we still struggle to find solutions
for some of the birds we have taken on with this condition.
Evaluating the situation below the surface level we can draw some
potential insights into precipitating causes…
*Behavioural feather picking: In such cases there may be mild
damage to body contour and wing contour feathers resulting in damaged
barbs and barbules and a general appearance of poor feathering.
In my experience this is often related to boredom, lack of access
to regular bathing opportunities and lack of access to a partner
in the case of those species that indulge in mutual preening with
flock mates (such as Conures, Cockatoos, Amazons, Macaws, Lories,
African Greys). Unfortunately, many companion parrots lack the
presence of a conspecific partner, are not provided with species
appropriate bathing opportunities and are not provided with an
enriched environment. Managing feather picking at this level requires
an approach that focuses on re-evaluating the environmental enrichment
on offer, being more creative with feeding schedules to extend
time spent engaging in feeding activity and ensuring that bathing
opportunities are increased to promote proper preening behaviours.
In cases where the enrichment, bathing and feeding schedule is
appropriate and the bird is provided with access to a conspecific
partner, consideration of incompatibility stress in the environment
may be required. Stress from being housed with, next to or near
incompatible parrots or other animals can potentially result in
self-induced feather damage due to anxiety-based stress. This is
where a sound knowledge of parrot body language will provide insights
as to the observable degree of comfort level that the parrot may
be at in its environment. In addition to the above, handraised
juvenile parrots are often exposed to stressors early in life that
may result in juvenile feather problems. In appropriate weaning
schedules, lack of opportunity to fledge, improper clipping of
wings and early removal of parental figures can all potentially
result in stress-induced behavioural feather picking in juvenile
birds. In the case of certain species such as Gang-Gang cockatoos
and African Greys, removal of juvenile birds from environments
that allow access to parental support can be considered highly
contributory to feather picking and plucking observed before 12
months of age.
*Behavioural Feather Plucking: Feather damage that extends to
complete removal of feathers is usually either an extension of
long-term lack of enrichment (considering all forms) and/or the
result of stress induced by inappropriate housing, inappropriate
exposure to aversive stimuli (including incompatible animals within
the environment), inappropriate interactions with humans (excessive
use of negative reinforcement and punishment), inappropriate feeding
schedules and potentially, psychogenic issues related to hormone
dynamics and sexual maturity. Hormone relationship to feather plucking
has not been adequately studied and profiled to my knowledge therefore,
in my opinion, the common blame for feather plucking being directed
towards `hormones’ in sexually mature parrots is an inadequate
response to this situation and may fail to empower the owner with
need to focus on environmental change for effective behaviour change.
In some cases the situation extends to tissue damage and self-mutilation.
At this stage significant clinical care may be required and involve
a combination of strategies, including medication, which will involve
consulting with an avian veterinarian as well as a qualified behaviour
consultant.
After reading this I’m sure you can appreciate the potential
complexities of self-induced, behaviour feather damage in companion
parrots. Successful remedial management of the situation in many
circumstances is often dependent on a `holistic’ approach
that seeks to cater for numerous potential causes. In next month’s
Q&A we’ll take a look at such approaches.
If you are experiencing behavioural feather problems with your
companion parrot then consider taking the opportunity to contact
me and discuss your situation. Attendance at one of our Currumbin
Wildlife Sanctuary workshops, a phone consultation or even an in-home
consultation might provide some of the solutions that you’re
searching for.
For more information about my workshop experience
or to receive a pamphlet with information about my consultation
services simply contact me via jim@parrot-behaviour.info or via
my website at http://www.parrot-behaviour.info
Kind Regards, Jim McKendry
Parrot Behaviour & Enrichment Consultations
http://www.pbec.com.au
jim@pbec.com.au
mobile: 0421 175 841
Do you have a parrot behaviour or
care FAQ that you would like me to answer via the PRC Newsletter?
If so then e-mail your question to Zarita via zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
To access information on the Parrot-behviour.info
website and the CPSN initiatives please visit:
www.parrot-behaviour.info.com
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| PRC
TIPS - Enrichment |
Parrots love to chew natural wood. Threading cut pieces of natural
wood onto leather strips, chain or sisal rope can provide
endless chewing fun and is a cheap alternative for toys.
Parrots love perches that move. Hanging swings or perches from
the aviary or cage are good ways of keeping your parrot busy.
In the wild tree branches move in the wind and when they land
on them, this helps with balance, exercise and provides some
stimulation.
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Elmo having a great time on his swing! |
Featured Product of the
Month from the PRC Shop
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PRC would like to provide you with some resourceful information
each month of selected items from the PRC shop. The PRC personally
uses all items provided in the Shop to ensure there safety, durability
and excitement factor. Remember most PRC birds live in aviary environments
and practice there natural chewing ability 24/7 therefore toys
put in our aviaries do not have the same length of durability as
a pet parrot kept indoors. When toys are tested with the PRC indoor
parrots, the toys have a longer durability rate.
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Dino
Delight Size Compatibility: Any parrot
from Ringnecks to Macaws will enjoy this product.
Safety Rate: 100% safe, check regualary for
excess wear and tear.
Durability: Very durable in caged birds Tips: Rotate toys regularly to prevent
bordem.
Excitement Factor: They love to chew the wood bits and
doggy raw hide
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The PRC Alexandrine Parrots enjoy their Dino Delights! |
This product is available from the PRC
shop, price includes delivery.
All profits from the PRC Shop go directly
into helping the daily operations of the PRC.
Thankyou for your support
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| PRC
Shop - Christmas Special Offer |
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The
PRC would like to offer your companion parrot a special Christmas
gift
See Details Below
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| Option 1: |
| Purchase
any 3 items from the PRC Shop and receive a free 500g bag of Mixed
Gum nuts. |
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| Option 2: |
Purchase any
3 items from the PRC Shop and
receive a free Tropical Parrot Swing. |
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| Option 3: |
Purchase any
3 items from the PRC Shop and
receive a free Large Parrot Fruit Kabob. |
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| Option 4: |
Donate $50 or more and receive a Extra large
Fruit Kabob
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| Option 5: |
Donate $50 or more and receive free
860g bag of Tropimix for Small parrots (includes grains,
legumes, fruits, nuts and vegetables)
It’s a great teat for
small parrots. |
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This product is only available with this offer and limited
stock available! |
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HERE'S HOW TO GET
YOUR FREE CHRISTMAS GIFT! |
When placing your on-line order "Write
your prefered Option number (1-5) in the Comments section of your
Paypal
payment"
It is that Easy! |
Paypal
now takes bank card payments, so if you do not own a credit card
or don’t like using online Credit facilities, you will be happy
to know you can now make payment with you bank account details.
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| Support the Parrot Rescue Centre for CHRISTMAS |
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“You know there is an answer to the
suffering we see, and though it isn’t easy,
its still as simple
as you and me”
(Quoted by John Denvor- Foster Parrots Mission
Statement) |
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Christmas is one of the hardest times of
the year for all charitable organisations. The Parrot Rescue Centre
finds Spring and Christmas the largest surrendering times of the year.
- Spring- which is breeding season for parrots- this is when behavioural
problems occur and people are more likely to surrender there
parrots
- Christmas- people are surrendering birds to avoid paying boarding
costs etc
At present we have up to five birds being surrendered a week (mainly
Cockatoos) for behavioural issues (screaming and aggression), this
number does not include parrots that have been turned down due to
the PRC only being able to take a certain amount in at one time.
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“The Demand for placement has far out
paced our ability to accommodate it………”
(Foster
Parrrots, Ltd) |
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| The Parrot Rescue Centre spends a lot of
time and resources in doing what is best for the parrots by ensuring
the birds are regularly vet checked, given fresh food, enrichment,
clean aviaries and cages, providing natural habitats and by building
larger enclosures.
We need your help and support to continue to provide a high standard
of care to the PRC parrots.
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| How you can help: |
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- Purchase toys and accessories from the
PRC shop click here.
- Make a monetary donation click here.
- Provide us with our wish list
items.
Wish List: Direct
Care & Housing Items
- Heavy-duty vacuum cleaner
- Toys (all sizes and parrot
safe)
- Extra-large cages in excellent
condition
- Perches (cotton, sisal,)
- Play stands in excellent condition
- Portable hospital cages
- Dog and Cat transport carriers
- Stainless steel food cups
- Towels and sheets
- Newspaper
- Wood screws
- All sized eyelets
- Metal and plastic chain
- Natural leather (scraps or
strips for making toys)
- Ceramic water dishes.
- Paper Towel
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Please help us help the parrots. |
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Pebbles has plucked her feathers because of the conditions
she came from.
A rescue organisation in Sydney found the bird with little to no
shelter from the weather or predators and mouldy water and food,
so she was removed from her owners.
The rescue org were unable to place her so she was going to be euthanized.
Because of our facilities and services Pebbles now lives in a large
aviary with other parrots and is recovering from her many years of
torment to her feathers and body. Pebbles was tested for disease
and has come out with a clean bill of health, so now it is only time
and lots of tender loving care that can heal her wounds. |
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Postal Address for wish list items: |
Parrot Rescue Centre
Po Box 797
Mudgeeraba, QLD 4213
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Alternatively contact
me directly on 0755692840 to discuss
how you would like to give your
support
Thankyou for your kindness.
Yours truly,
Zarita Garozzo
PRC Director
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Member
Moments - Story
of the month
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"Gubby"
Limmy and Phillip have won best story for the month of November!
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Gubby is a female hand reared
Galah, and we bought her in Oct. 2003. We also bought a Major Mitchell
at the same time, so they could keep each other company. They were
housed in the same cage. All was well for a while but when they were
coming to a year old, Major (male) became aggressive towards Gubby.
Also our circumstances changed, and we were renting while we built.
It became increasingly difficult to care for Major Mitchell, and eventually
Major was surrendered to Zarita. So then Gubby was on her own.
She was still going well until earlier this year, when she started
calling out when I was at home. Her cage is positioned in the veranda
where I can view her from the kitchen as well as the lounge. She
seems to know when I'm at home. Whenever I leave the kitchen to go
to other parts of the house, no matter where, as long as she can't
see me, she started to call out. Sometimes I even tried setting the
alarm on, open and close the garage door, to trick her that I've
gone out. This only works for a little while.
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Because I
work shifts, so I decided to adopt Gilbert (male Galah) from Zarita.
Gubby has now stopped the calling. I think they are happy together.
They are not preening each other yet, but if I have one out without
the other, after a short while, they call out for each other. They
eat together, rest together (but not on same perch), seem to have
the same activity simultaneously.
I like to thank Zarita for allowing me to adopt Gilbert. Gilbert
is very tame, he is even friendlier than Gubby. What I've learnt
is that it is better to have birds in a pair, for us, it is for the
birds to have a companion, not to breed as such.
By Limmy and Phillip
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| How
to Enter Your Member Story: |
How to enter the monthly
draw to win a PRC recommended parrot toy and have your birdies
picture and story part of the PRC Newsletter.
· Fill
out the Parrot Rescue Centre Membership Form
· Write
a story about your feathered friends, weather emotional,
funny or silly
· Send
it to zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
· Include
a photo of your bird as an attachment on the email.
It’s
that easy! We look forward to hearing your stories!
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| PRC
Support Conservation |
| What is Conservation?
Conservation involves protecting remaining habitats as well as
the birds themselves.
What we can do?
- Do not buy a wild-caught bird for a pet.(Don’t feel sorry
for the bird, as the supplier will just replace it with another
if you purchase it)
- Do not buy furniture, building materials and other items made
from mahogany, rosewood, teak or ebony. These are rainforest
woods. Buy purpose grown wood, such as pine.
The Parrot Rescue Centre conservation initiative is in place to
help provide an awareness to all, that if we do not support conservation
organisations, who then will protect our native wildlife. We hope
that our membership and support of these large organisations who
do so much for our eco system, will encourage you to become an
active member also, remember together we can and will continue
to make a difference.
The Parrot Rescue Centre is an active member of the following organisations:
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The
World Parrot Trust
The World Parrot Trust work to achieve the survival of parrot species
in the wild, and the welfare of captive birds everywhere.
To achieve this they:
- Restore and protect populations of wild parrots and their native
habitats
- Promote awareness of the threats to all parrots, captive and
wild
- Oppose the trade in wild-caught parrots
- Educate the public on high standards for the care and breeding
of parrots
- Encourage links between conservation and aviculture
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THE CHARITY
FUNDING PROJECTS AND PROMOTING
EXCELLENCE IN PARROT CONSERVATION AND WELFARE
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Birds
Australia
- Birds Australia is dedicated to the conservation, study and
enjoyment of Australia's native birds and their habitats.
- Birds Australia has joined with bird and habitat conservation
organisations worldwide to form a global partnership called Birdlife
International.
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An Organisation
dedicated to the conservation, study and enjoyment of Australia's
native birds and their habitats.
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| “From
the Avian Vets Desk” - TRICHOMONIASIS IN PET BIRDS |
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Recently, I have had a “run” of budgerigars presented
at the surgery, suffering from trichomoniasis. This is a disease
caused by microscopic protozoan parasites (trichomonas) that affect
the mouth, the crop, the pharynx and the trachea of the infected
birds.
This disease can affect many different types of birds. I
have diagnosed and treated trichomoniasis or trich in pigeons,
doves,
poultry, hawks, eagles, falcons, budgerigars, cockatiels and many
other psittacines (parrots). In private avian practice, it is very
prevalent in budgerigars.
The trichomonads (protozoa) cause white
plaques and inflammation of the lining of the mouth, throat, esophagus
and crop. These plaques
or lesions have a white/cheesy appearance. The severity and appearance
of the lesions vary in accordance with the virulence of the infection.
As the disease progresses, the lesions become larger and thicker
and can result in the patient experiencing difficulty in eating
and breathing.
In the past, the typical symptom of a bird suffering from trichomoniasis
was a “sticky head” caused by vomiting. When small
parrots vomit, they shake their heads to clear their mouths. This
results in sticky saliva covering the feathers on their head. However,
lately I’m diagnosing chronic trichomoniasis in severely
affected birds which do not exhibit typical signs of vomiting.
These birds are presented exhibiting “sick bird” symptoms
i.e. fluffed, thin and weak. However, other birds can be asymptomatic
carriers and show no obvious signs of the disease.
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The disease is transmitted by direct mouth to mouth
contact between two birds. This can occur when parents are feeding
chicks or during the courting process between bonded pairs. It
can also be transmitted through healthy birds feeding from food
and water contaminated by infected birds.
Trichomoniasis is diagnosed by a crop wash and microscopic
examination of the crop fluids. The flagellated protozoa move around
like “speed boats” and are very characteristic and
easily diagnosed.
What has been evident in most of the recently presented cases is
the formation of Trich abscesses in the mouth, throat and crop
of the infected birds. In some cases the trich plaque or abscess
obstruct the airways and infected birds can die of suffocation.
In other cases, the inflammation of the throat and crop causes
pain when swallowing, e.g. the affected birds can husk seed but
are unable to swallow it. (owners see their pet at the seed bowl
but are unaware that he is incapable of swallowing). In these cases,
the infected bird will starve to death unless treated.
I have also seen the result of a trich abscess causing erosion
of a blood vessel in the crop. The affected bird died of a fatal
haemorrhage. Last week two young budgies were presented and diagnosed
with chronic trichomoniasis. Each bird had a large trich abscess
in the crop which had progressed full thickness, from inside
the crop through the crop wall to the skin surface. As treatment
progressed in each bird, the abscess healed and was extruded from
the body without surgical intervention.
Antiprotozoal drugs are effective in treating Trichomoniasis (Ronidazole
and Flagyl). Severely affected birds require intensive care and
supportive therapy as well as the antiprotozoal medication, whereas,
asymptomatic carriers can be treated with a 7 day course in their
drinking water. Most birds that are diagnosed early have a good
chance of recovery. However, birds that are severely debilitated
and/or have extensive damage to the respiratory or digestive tract
may not recover.
Most of the cases of Trichomoniasis that I have treated lately
have resulted from clients purchasing birds without getting them
health checked. All of these cases have highlighted once again
the importance of health checks and quarantine for all newly acquired
birds. In several instances, the pet budgies had been coping with
the infection for eighteen months before they exhibited signs of
illness serious enough for their owners to take them to the vet.
Health checks, quarantine and observation are the keys to maintaining
the health of your pet.
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Written by Peter
Wilson
BVSc MACVSc
Avian and Reptile Practitioner
To contact Peter Wilson Click
Here
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| Bird
Boarding |
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Do you need a guilt-free holiday?
Leave your precious birds with understanding
and knowledgeable parrot carers.
We provide quality care for your pet birds
including clean housing, healthy diet, enrichment, interaction
and training (extra fee).
Your bird will not have time to be bored
or sad, so stress and frustration will be less likely.
All funds made from bird boarding are directly
used by the Parrot Rescue Centre to help with caring and maintaining
the sanctuary birds environment.
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| Bird
Boarding Health Check Requirement |
All Boarding Parrots are required to undergo a health check by a qualified
Veterinarian preferably an avian specialist or vet that has a special
interest in birds, please Click Here to find
your nearest suitable vet.
Health check should include:
- Tested negative to Psittacosis
- Tested negative to PBFD
- Faeces Tested negative for worms and bacteria
- Examination suggests that the bird is clinically free
of illness or infection and is considered in sound physical
health by the examining veterinarian
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For
more information please contact:
Zarita Garozzo
Parrot Rescue Centre Co-coordinator on:
Ph: 07 5569 2840
Email: zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
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| Meet
some of the family |
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Species:
Indian Ringneck
Name: Nody
Age: 2 years
Sex: Male
About Nody:
Nody: Nody was surrendered by a breeder as a baby to an avian vet due
to the bird suffering from a stomach disorder. Nody is now healthy and
happy
living in a large mixed Asiatic aviary.
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Nody playing
in branches
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Nody eating gumnuts |
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| Can
I Adopt a Parrot? |
Yes, if you pass the essential assessment process.
It is vital that the PRC have a assessment process
for people wanting to adopt a parrot, as many of the parrots that
have been surrendered to the PRC have been given away because of
behavioral issues.
The PRC does the best they can through the rehabilitation
process to ensure that these behaviors are controlled although
when re homing these birds we need to ensure the parrot owner has
a good understanding of parrot needs and requirements.
These birds do not deserve to be moved from home
to home anymore, so if you are adopting a bird from the PRC it
is going to be a life long commitment.
Click
here for more information and to apply
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| Next
Month Highlights: Feather Plucking-Part 3 |
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Parrot Rescue Centre,
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Rights Reserved Parrot Rescue Centre Inc 2005 ©.
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