Volume 10 December 2005
Steve Martin Event
Steve Martin - A Great Event!
The Parrot Rescue Centre would like to say a big Thankyou to the Parrot Society of Australia for organising the special event on the 27th November staring Steve Martin. All that attended have gained a lot of knowledge and inspiration from his presentation.

About Steve Martin:
"
One of the best-known trainers in the world, Steve Martin has pioneered the art of training a variety of birds and animals through positive reinforcement. A master falconer for over 30 years and a parrot trainer for more than 35, Steve has produced and consulted on bird and animal behaviour at over 35 zoos and parks on four continents. Steve's training experience includes well over 100 species of birds and over 25 species of mammals. He is a member of the California Condor Recovery Team and behaviour consultant several zoos and the Hawaiian Hawk and Hawaiian Crow projects. He is also the founder, past President, and President Elect of IAATE (International Association of Avian Trainers and Educators). His free-flight bird shows have been enjoyed by millions of people. Steve is well-known for his educational program philosophy which is to engage, inspire and empower his audience.” (http://www.naturalencounters.com )

Some important points that Steve Martin covered at his presentation which we would like to share with those that could not attend are:

  • Relating pet companion parrot behaviour to wild parrot behaviours (as all parrots are not domesticated they are wild by nature)
  • Conservation happens with wild parrots in the wild, not in aviculture/captivity, so support wild bird conservation programs. (visit www.worldparrottrust.org or www.birdsaustralia.com.au )
  • Positive Reinforcement is the key to training and behaviour management rather then punishment or negative reinforcement.
  • T here is no such thing as height dominance, parrots feel safer when up high this is why they like to be above everything rather then them wanting to dominate us.


    For all that are interested Steve Martin does provide a Companion Parrot workshop in Florida. The dates for the next set of workshops are January 21st and February 4th please visit http://www.naturalencounters.com for more information.

Steve Martin & friends
 
Positive Reward Training - By Verna Shannan


Basic Training - Part 4

The purpose of this series of lessons for your bird is to get him to go into a carrier without hesitation when asked to do so and to be wrapped in a towel without being fearful. When a bird is sick he is very stressed and fragile so we don’t want to stress him even more if we can help it. Picking him up in an unfamiliar towel, putting him into a carrier or box and taking him in a car to the avian vet is all very stressful if he is not used to this treatment. If all of these things are familiar to him, his chance of survival will be much greater. It would be even more stressful if you had him out in the car watching all the other cars going past.

If you are just beginning and haven’t read my articles in the previous issues of Talking Birds, I suggest that you do so before embarking on this month’s lessons.

Your bird should, by this time, be standing quietly on the bottom front perch waiting to be taken out on your hand when you approach at lesson times. He should then be stepping up without hesitation when you put your hand to his chest to bring him out of the cage and he should be happy to stay on your hand while you walk away from his cage and into other rooms with him. He should be comfortable as you walk past mirrors and flapping curtains etc. He doesn’t fly off when a bird or plane flies overhead or a car backfires outside. He steps up onto the scales when asked and then on and off a T-Stand.

Now you need to teach your bird to step onto a table and eat his meals there. Put an open carrier on the table and if the table has a glass top cover it with a towel first.

1.
After you have put your bird through his normal routine get him to step up onto your hand.
 
2.
Pick up his fruit and vegetables, which you have already prepared, and place them on the table as far away from the carrier as possible.
 
3.
Encourage the bird to step up onto the table near his food bowl and then leave him to eat the food. If he won’t step onto the table, because it is unfamiliar, put some of his favourite treats onto the table while he watches you and try again. If he still won’t do it put him away for an hour before trying again. Keep repeating this until he goes onto the table.
 
4.
Once he is happy to go onto the table without hesitation, and this may take a few days, start moving the food very slightly closer to the carrier. Little by little, day by day, depending on the confidence of the bird, place the food nearer and nearer until it is just inside the carrier. Never increase the criteria until the bird is comfortable with what he is doing.


5.
Once he is eating happily with his head in the carrier start placing the food a little further back into it until the bird has to get right inside to get the food.
 
6.
Once he is staying in the carrier to eat the whole meal, rather than grabbing a bit and running out with it, start closing the carrier door and opening it again. Then leave it shut a second longer and so on until the bird is happy to stay in there with the door shut.
 
7.
Once you are at this stage you can stop feeding meals in the carrier and simply throw in a few treats to entice the bird to go in and stay there. Then you can start walking around the house with the bird in the carrier and eventually take him for outings in the car.
   
At first you need to do carrier training twice a day, then once a day, then once every second day and so on until you only get the carrier out once a week for training so that the bird doesn’t forget and become fearful of it again.

Now you can start towel training so that when you visit your avian vet you can hand your bird to him wrapped in a towel, if he needs to examine him, without sending the bird into a frenzy of terror.

 
1.
Choose a towel as close to the colour of the bird as possible. This is because there may be a chance that the bird believes it is another bird’s wing around him once you start wrapping him up. Always use the same towel so that it becomes very familiar to him.
2.
Put the towel in the carrier with some treats on it and get the bird used to walking on it.
   
3.
Put the towel over the T-Stand and get the bird to step up onto it.
 
4.
Start touching the bird with the towel, bridge and reward.
 
5.
Gradually, as the bird becomes accustomed to the touch of the towel, start leaving it a bit longer before taking it away.
 
6.
Get down on the floor with the bird and start to cover your head first and the then bird at the same time with the towel. Remove the towel very quickly at first, bridging and rewarding all the way.
 
7.
When the bird is comfortable with that cover him but leave your head out.
   
8.
Call the bird’s name until he finds his way out of the towel.
   
9.
Call ‘Good,’ praise and reward the bird enthusiastically.
   
10.
Again play this game every day at first and then cut it down to once a week to keep it fresh for the bird.
 
Always start every new step slowly and do it often. Keep up regular practice sessions. Never work for longer that ten minutes a session. Build in lots of sessions when you have time and don’t ever lose your patience or your temper.
 

Please contact me if you need help with your parrot or parrots and I will send you a list of my fees and services.

Birdbrains@bigpond.com Mobile: 0407 911 474

   

 
Don’t miss the chance to come to this one-day workshop at the Parrot Rescue Centre on the Gold Coast.

Topics covered will be:
Understanding bird behaviour, enrichment, diet, housing & training.

There will be some hands on work with our birds. It will also involve a tour of the Parrot Rescue Centre and seeing trained native Australian birds free fly outside.

Presented by:
Verna Shannan (Parrot Behaviour Consultant)
Place:
Mudgeeraba
Date:
7th January 2006
Time:
10am-4pm
Cost:
$100 per person or $150 for two people
For Bookings please phone: 0407 911 474
Birdbrains@bigpond.com Mobile: 0407 911 474
 
Published in Talking Birds Australian’s Avian Newspaper- May 05
Australia's only newspaper devoted to the care and breeding of birds - including finches, canaries, parrots, cockatoos, budgies, softbills, pheasants and waterfowl. It is full of news, information and feature articles from Australia and around the world. For more information visit: www.talkingbirds.com.au
Companion Parrot Support Network

What causes feather loss?

FAQ by Parrot Behaviour & Enrichment Consultations

1. What might be causing feather loss in my companion parrot? (Part 2)

In last month’s edition of Q&A we focused on the initial evaluation of feather loss and the importance of seeking avian veterinarian advice as the first point of reference if concerns arise about the feather condition of your parrot. Once an evaluation has been made by your avian veterinarian that the feather loss is behavioural, it’s time to focus on the potential causes and underlying issues that may have led to the condition.

Firstly, at a surface level we can usually categorise feather loss and damage into:
*Feather Picking: Damage to the feathers via improper preening that does not result in their complete removal.
*Feather Plucking: Complete removal of feathers from the body.

In some circumstances it may even be a combination of the two, where the feathers are first excessively preened, resulting in damage to the feather barbs, and then removed completely. Other terms occasionally used are feather mutilation and feather destruction. These are essentially synonymous with the above.

I’ve personally managed and consulted with feather picking and feather plucking in companion parrots for more than 10 years now, including parrots in my own flock. Over that time I have been able to establish some general correlations between the observable feather damage characteristics and the most likely causes. In every situation however, a thorough examination of the environment and all of its dynamic components must be made.

Feather picking and feather plucking is considered a `stereotypical’ behaviour, and by definition is not a normal and functional behaviour. All behaviour however, functional or otherwise, is linked to the environmental context. We need to acknowledge and appreciate that this is a captive phenomenon that is not observed in wild parrots. For a wild parrot to remove or damage its own feathers is equivalent to suicide. The accountability for self-induced feather damage in captive parrots ends with `us’ as ultimately, this behavioural problem is an indicator of our failure to provide the captive conditions and experience conducive to proper behavioural health. Sometimes achieving an optimum captive environment can be extremely difficult; indeed despite my own best efforts, we still struggle to find solutions for some of the birds we have taken on with this condition.

Evaluating the situation below the surface level we can draw some potential insights into precipitating causes…

*Behavioural feather picking: In such cases there may be mild damage to body contour and wing contour feathers resulting in damaged barbs and barbules and a general appearance of poor feathering. In my experience this is often related to boredom, lack of access to regular bathing opportunities and lack of access to a partner in the case of those species that indulge in mutual preening with flock mates (such as Conures, Cockatoos, Amazons, Macaws, Lories, African Greys). Unfortunately, many companion parrots lack the presence of a conspecific partner, are not provided with species appropriate bathing opportunities and are not provided with an enriched environment. Managing feather picking at this level requires an approach that focuses on re-evaluating the environmental enrichment on offer, being more creative with feeding schedules to extend time spent engaging in feeding activity and ensuring that bathing opportunities are increased to promote proper preening behaviours. In cases where the enrichment, bathing and feeding schedule is appropriate and the bird is provided with access to a conspecific partner, consideration of incompatibility stress in the environment may be required. Stress from being housed with, next to or near incompatible parrots or other animals can potentially result in self-induced feather damage due to anxiety-based stress. This is where a sound knowledge of parrot body language will provide insights as to the observable degree of comfort level that the parrot may be at in its environment. In addition to the above, handraised juvenile parrots are often exposed to stressors early in life that may result in juvenile feather problems. In appropriate weaning schedules, lack of opportunity to fledge, improper clipping of wings and early removal of parental figures can all potentially result in stress-induced behavioural feather picking in juvenile birds. In the case of certain species such as Gang-Gang cockatoos and African Greys, removal of juvenile birds from environments that allow access to parental support can be considered highly contributory to feather picking and plucking observed before 12 months of age.

*Behavioural Feather Plucking: Feather damage that extends to complete removal of feathers is usually either an extension of long-term lack of enrichment (considering all forms) and/or the result of stress induced by inappropriate housing, inappropriate exposure to aversive stimuli (including incompatible animals within the environment), inappropriate interactions with humans (excessive use of negative reinforcement and punishment), inappropriate feeding schedules and potentially, psychogenic issues related to hormone dynamics and sexual maturity. Hormone relationship to feather plucking has not been adequately studied and profiled to my knowledge therefore, in my opinion, the common blame for feather plucking being directed towards `hormones’ in sexually mature parrots is an inadequate response to this situation and may fail to empower the owner with need to focus on environmental change for effective behaviour change.

In some cases the situation extends to tissue damage and self-mutilation. At this stage significant clinical care may be required and involve a combination of strategies, including medication, which will involve consulting with an avian veterinarian as well as a qualified behaviour consultant.

After reading this I’m sure you can appreciate the potential complexities of self-induced, behaviour feather damage in companion parrots. Successful remedial management of the situation in many circumstances is often dependent on a `holistic’ approach that seeks to cater for numerous potential causes. In next month’s Q&A we’ll take a look at such approaches.

If you are experiencing behavioural feather problems with your companion parrot then consider taking the opportunity to contact me and discuss your situation. Attendance at one of our Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary workshops, a phone consultation or even an in-home consultation might provide some of the solutions that you’re searching for.

For more information about my workshop experience or to receive a pamphlet with information about my consultation services simply contact me via jim@parrot-behaviour.info or via my website at http://www.parrot-behaviour.info

Kind Regards, Jim McKendry
Parrot Behaviour & Enrichment Consultations
http://www.pbec.com.au
jim@pbec.com.au
mobile: 0421 175 841

Do you have a parrot behaviour or care FAQ that you would like me to answer via the PRC Newsletter? If so then e-mail your question to Zarita via zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com

To access information on the Parrot-behviour.info website and the CPSN initiatives please visit:
www.parrot-behaviour.info.com

PRC TIPS - Enrichment


Parrots love to chew natural wood. Threading cut pieces of natural wood onto leather strips, chain or sisal rope can provide endless chewing fun and is a cheap alternative for toys.

Parrots love perches that move. Hanging swings or perches from the aviary or cage are good ways of keeping your parrot busy. In the wild tree branches move in the wind and when they land on them, this helps with balance, exercise and provides some stimulation.

Elmo having a great time on his swing!

Featured Product of the Month from the PRC Shop

PRC would like to provide you with some resourceful information each month of selected items from the PRC shop. The PRC personally uses all items provided in the Shop to ensure there safety, durability and excitement factor. Remember most PRC birds live in aviary environments and practice there natural chewing ability 24/7 therefore toys put in our aviaries do not have the same length of durability as a pet parrot kept indoors. When toys are tested with the PRC indoor parrots, the toys have a longer durability rate.

Dino Delight

Size Compatibility: Any parrot from Ringnecks to Macaws will enjoy this product.


Safety Rate: 100% safe, check regualary for excess wear and tear.


Durability: Very durable in caged birds

Tips: Rotate toys regularly to prevent bordem.

Excitement Factor:
They love to chew the wood bits and doggy raw hide




The PRC Alexandrine Parrots enjoy their Dino Delights!

This product is available from the PRC shop, price includes delivery.

All profits from the PRC Shop go directly into helping the daily operations of the PRC.

Thankyou for your support

PRC Shop - Christmas Special Offer


The PRC would like to offer your companion parrot a special Christmas
gift
See Details Below

Option 1:
Purchase any 3 items from the PRC Shop and receive a free 500g bag of Mixed Gum nuts.
 
Option 2:
Purchase any 3 items from the PRC Shop and receive a free Tropical Parrot Swing.
 
Option 3:
Purchase any 3 items from the PRC Shop and receive a free Large Parrot Fruit Kabob.
   
Option 4:
Donate $50 or more and receive a Extra large Fruit Kabob
   
Option 5:
Donate $50 or more and receive free 860g bag of Tropimix for Small parrots (includes grains, legumes, fruits, nuts and vegetables)
It’s a great teat for small parrots.
This product is only available with this offer and limited stock available!
   
HERE'S HOW TO GET YOUR FREE CHRISTMAS GIFT!
When placing your on-line order "Write your prefered Option number (1-5) in the Comments section of your Paypal payment"
It is that Easy!

Paypal now takes bank card payments, so if you do not own a credit card or don’t like using online Credit facilities, you will be happy to know you can now make payment with you bank account details.

Support the Parrot Rescue Centre for CHRISTMAS
“You know there is an answer to the suffering we see, and though it isn’t easy,
its still as simple as you and me”

(Quoted by John Denvor- Foster Parrots Mission Statement)
Christmas is one of the hardest times of the year for all charitable organisations. The Parrot Rescue Centre finds Spring and Christmas the largest surrendering times of the year.
  • Spring- which is breeding season for parrots- this is when behavioural problems occur and people are more likely to surrender there parrots
  • Christmas- people are surrendering birds to avoid paying boarding costs etc

At present we have up to five birds being surrendered a week (mainly Cockatoos) for behavioural issues (screaming and aggression), this number does not include parrots that have been turned down due to the PRC only being able to take a certain amount in at one time.

“The Demand for placement has far out paced our ability to accommodate it………”
(Foster Parrrots, Ltd)
The Parrot Rescue Centre spends a lot of time and resources in doing what is best for the parrots by ensuring the birds are regularly vet checked, given fresh food, enrichment, clean aviaries and cages, providing natural habitats and by building larger enclosures.

We need your help and support to continue to provide a high standard of care to the PRC parrots.

 

How you can help:
  1. Purchase toys and accessories from the PRC shop click here.
  2. Make a monetary donation click here.
  3. Provide us with our wish list items.

    Wish List: Direct Care & Housing Items

  • Heavy-duty vacuum cleaner
  • Toys (all sizes and parrot safe)
  • Extra-large cages in excellent condition
  • Perches (cotton, sisal,)
  • Play stands in excellent condition
  • Portable hospital cages
  • Dog and Cat transport carriers
  • Stainless steel food cups
  • Towels and sheets
  • Newspaper
  • Wood screws
  • All sized eyelets
  • Metal and plastic chain
  • Natural leather (scraps or strips for making toys)
  • Ceramic water dishes.
  • Paper Towel
Please help us help the parrots.
Pebbles has plucked her feathers because of the conditions she came from.

A rescue organisation in Sydney found the bird with little to no shelter from the weather or predators and mouldy water and food, so she was removed from her owners.

The rescue org were unable to place her so she was going to be euthanized. Because of our facilities and services Pebbles now lives in a large aviary with other parrots and is recovering from her many years of torment to her feathers and body. Pebbles was tested for disease and has come out with a clean bill of health, so now it is only time and lots of tender loving care that can heal her wounds.

Postal Address for wish list items:
Parrot Rescue Centre

Po Box 797

Mudgeeraba, QLD 4213

Alternatively contact me directly on 0755692840 to discuss
how you would like to give your support

Thankyou for your kindness.

Yours truly,

Zarita Garozzo
PRC Director

Member Moments - Story of the month

"Gubby"
Limmy and Phillip have won best story for the month of November!

Gubby is a female hand reared Galah, and we bought her in Oct. 2003. We also bought a Major Mitchell at the same time, so they could keep each other company. They were housed in the same cage. All was well for a while but when they were coming to a year old, Major (male) became aggressive towards Gubby. Also our circumstances changed, and we were renting while we built. It became increasingly difficult to care for Major Mitchell, and eventually Major was surrendered to Zarita. So then Gubby was on her own.

She was still going well until earlier this year, when she started calling out when I was at home. Her cage is positioned in the veranda where I can view her from the kitchen as well as the lounge. She seems to know when I'm at home. Whenever I leave the kitchen to go to other parts of the house, no matter where, as long as she can't see me, she started to call out. Sometimes I even tried setting the alarm on, open and close the garage door, to trick her that I've gone out. This only works for a little while.

Because I work shifts, so I decided to adopt Gilbert (male Galah) from Zarita.

Gubby has now stopped the calling. I think they are happy together. They are not preening each other yet, but if I have one out without the other, after a short while, they call out for each other. They eat together, rest together (but not on same perch), seem to have the same activity simultaneously.

I like to thank Zarita for allowing me to adopt Gilbert. Gilbert is very tame, he is even friendlier than Gubby. What I've learnt is that it is better to have birds in a pair, for us, it is for the birds to have a companion, not to breed as such.

By Limmy and Phillip


How to Enter Your Member Story:

How to enter the monthly draw to win a PRC recommended parrot toy and have your birdies picture and story part of the PRC Newsletter.
· Fill out the Parrot Rescue Centre Membership Form
· Write a story about your feathered friends, weather emotional, funny or silly
· Send it to zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
· Include a photo of your bird as an attachment on the email.

It’s that easy! We look forward to hearing your stories!

PRC Support Conservation
What is Conservation?

Conservation involves protecting remaining habitats as well as the birds themselves.

What we can do?

  • Do not buy a wild-caught bird for a pet.(Don’t feel sorry for the bird, as the supplier will just replace it with another if you purchase it)
  • Do not buy furniture, building materials and other items made from mahogany, rosewood, teak or ebony. These are rainforest woods. Buy purpose grown wood, such as pine.

The Parrot Rescue Centre conservation initiative is in place to help provide an awareness to all, that if we do not support conservation organisations, who then will protect our native wildlife. We hope that our membership and support of these large organisations who do so much for our eco system, will encourage you to become an active member also, remember together we can and will continue to make a difference.

The Parrot Rescue Centre is an active member of the following organisations:


The World Parrot Trust
The World Parrot Trust work to achieve the survival of parrot species in the wild, and the welfare of captive birds everywhere.

To achieve this they:

  • Restore and protect populations of wild parrots and their native habitats
  • Promote awareness of the threats to all parrots, captive and wild
  • Oppose the trade in wild-caught parrots
  • Educate the public on high standards for the care and breeding of parrots
  • Encourage links between conservation and aviculture
THE CHARITY FUNDING PROJECTS AND PROMOTING
EXCELLENCE IN PARROT CONSERVATION AND WELFARE

   
Birds Australia
  • Birds Australia is dedicated to the conservation, study and enjoyment of Australia's native birds and their habitats.
  • Birds Australia has joined with bird and habitat conservation organisations worldwide to form a global partnership called Birdlife International.
An Organisation dedicated to the conservation, study and enjoyment of Australia's native birds and their habitats.


“From the Avian Vets Desk” - TRICHOMONIASIS IN PET BIRDS


Recently, I have had a “run” of budgerigars presented at the surgery, suffering from trichomoniasis. This is a disease caused by microscopic protozoan parasites (trichomonas) that affect the mouth, the crop, the pharynx and the trachea of the infected birds.

This disease can affect many different types of birds. I have diagnosed and treated trichomoniasis or trich in pigeons, doves, poultry, hawks, eagles, falcons, budgerigars, cockatiels and many other psittacines (parrots). In private avian practice, it is very prevalent in budgerigars.

The trichomonads (protozoa) cause white plaques and inflammation of the lining of the mouth, throat, esophagus and crop. These plaques or lesions have a white/cheesy appearance. The severity and appearance of the lesions vary in accordance with the virulence of the infection. As the disease progresses, the lesions become larger and thicker and can result in the patient experiencing difficulty in eating and breathing.

In the past, the typical symptom of a bird suffering from trichomoniasis was a “sticky head” caused by vomiting. When small parrots vomit, they shake their heads to clear their mouths. This results in sticky saliva covering the feathers on their head. However, lately I’m diagnosing chronic trichomoniasis in severely affected birds which do not exhibit typical signs of vomiting. These birds are presented exhibiting “sick bird” symptoms i.e. fluffed, thin and weak. However, other birds can be asymptomatic carriers and show no obvious signs of the disease.


The disease is transmitted by direct mouth to mouth contact between two birds. This can occur when parents are feeding chicks or during the courting process between bonded pairs. It can also be transmitted through healthy birds feeding from food and water contaminated by infected birds.

Trichomoniasis is diagnosed by a crop wash and microscopic examination of the crop fluids. The flagellated protozoa move around like “speed boats” and are very characteristic and easily diagnosed.

What has been evident in most of the recently presented cases is the formation of Trich abscesses in the mouth, throat and crop of the infected birds. In some cases the trich plaque or abscess obstruct the airways and infected birds can die of suffocation. In other cases, the inflammation of the throat and crop causes pain when swallowing, e.g. the affected birds can husk seed but are unable to swallow it. (owners see their pet at the seed bowl but are unaware that he is incapable of swallowing). In these cases, the infected bird will starve to death unless treated.

I have also seen the result of a trich abscess causing erosion of a blood vessel in the crop. The affected bird died of a fatal haemorrhage. Last week two young budgies were presented and diagnosed with chronic trichomoniasis. Each bird had a large trich abscess

in the crop which had progressed full thickness, from inside the crop through the crop wall to the skin surface. As treatment progressed in each bird, the abscess healed and was extruded from the body without surgical intervention.

Antiprotozoal drugs are effective in treating Trichomoniasis (Ronidazole and Flagyl). Severely affected birds require intensive care and supportive therapy as well as the antiprotozoal medication, whereas, asymptomatic carriers can be treated with a 7 day course in their drinking water. Most birds that are diagnosed early have a good chance of recovery. However, birds that are severely debilitated and/or have extensive damage to the respiratory or digestive tract may not recover.

Most of the cases of Trichomoniasis that I have treated lately have resulted from clients purchasing birds without getting them health checked. All of these cases have highlighted once again the importance of health checks and quarantine for all newly acquired birds. In several instances, the pet budgies had been coping with the infection for eighteen months before they exhibited signs of illness serious enough for their owners to take them to the vet. Health checks, quarantine and observation are the keys to maintaining the health of your pet.

Written by Peter Wilson
BVSc MACVSc
Avian and Reptile Practitioner

To contact Peter Wilson Click Here

Bird Boarding

Do you need a guilt-free holiday?

Leave your precious birds with understanding and knowledgeable parrot carers.

We provide quality care for your pet birds including clean housing, healthy diet, enrichment, interaction and training (extra fee).

Your bird will not have time to be bored or sad, so stress and frustration will be less likely.

All funds made from bird boarding are directly used by the Parrot Rescue Centre to help with caring and maintaining the sanctuary birds environment.

Bird Boarding Health Check Requirement

All Boarding Parrots are required to undergo a health check by a qualified Veterinarian preferably an avian specialist or vet that has a special interest in birds, please Click Here to find your nearest suitable vet.

Health check should include:
  • Tested negative to Psittacosis
  • Tested negative to PBFD
  • Faeces Tested negative for worms and bacteria
  • Examination suggests that the bird is clinically free of illness or infection and is considered in sound physical health by the examining veterinarian

For more information please contact:

Zarita Garozzo

Parrot Rescue Centre Co-coordinator on:

Ph: 07 5569 2840

Email: zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com

Meet some of the family


Species:
Indian Ringneck

Name: Nody

Age: 2 years

Sex: Male

About Nody:


Nody: Nody was surrendered by a breeder as a baby to an avian vet due to the bird suffering from a stomach disorder. Nody is now healthy and happy living in a large mixed Asiatic aviary.


Nody playing in branches
Nody eating gumnuts
Can I Adopt a Parrot?

Yes, if you pass the essential assessment process.

It is vital that the PRC have a assessment process for people wanting to adopt a parrot, as many of the parrots that have been surrendered to the PRC have been given away because of behavioral issues.

The PRC does the best they can through the rehabilitation process to ensure that these behaviors are controlled although when re homing these birds we need to ensure the parrot owner has a good understanding of parrot needs and requirements.

These birds do not deserve to be moved from home to home anymore, so if you are adopting a bird from the PRC it is going to be a life long commitment.

Click here for more information and to apply

Next Month Highlights: Feather Plucking-Part 3
 

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