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April
- May 2007 |
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| "Many
have forgotten this truth but you must not forget it. |
We remain responsible
forever for what we have tamed"
(Antoine de Saint-Exupeny)
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| Parrot
Society- New Companion Parrot Group- By Stewart Williamson |
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A special message to companion
parrot owners
The Parrot Society is no longer holding monthly meetings on the
second Wednesday of each month.
Instead, we are hosting quarterly meetings on the south and north
sides of Brisbane to replace the
monthly format.
We have made some exciting changes to these meetings for your benefit
too. The PSOA is
determined to bring together a viable group of companion parrot
owners for the purpose of
information sharing and networking that is specific to your needs
and interests.
We see this initiative as an Australian first whereby a special
forum is provided to allow companion
parrot owners a chance to get together, exchange ideas and have
a fun, sharing time in a relaxed
social environment.
Gary Colvin, the Parrot Society’s companion parrot writer
will be chairing our first forum to discuss the
topic of foraging and further enhance his recent article and road
test on the subject in the March April
issue of the PSOA News.
Jim McKendry, who is known to many of you through the Parrot Society
and BirdKeeper magazine,
has just returned from his visit to the USA and Costa Rica. He will
be presenting at our June meeting
along with leading avian veterinarians, avian medical researchers
and experts in their field.
This is your opportunity to get involved in the formation of a fantastic
group of like-minded
aviculturists. The Parrot Society hopes to foster the growth of
this companion parrot owner’s forum
into a dynamic group that is proactive in its coordination and future.
We are committed to catering for
your needs as demonstrated by our Parrots convention programs in
2004 and 2006.
Our meetings are a free educational event that includes endless
complimentary tea and coffee upon
arrival and throughout the meeting. A hot buffet dinner is also
available at low cost during the
evening’s program. Please confirm your intention to dine with
us before Friday 16th of March by
phoning myself on 07 3289 2523 to establish catering numbers for
the venue.
You are welcome to bring along your feathered friend to add to your
enjoyment as well as any human
friends you feel would also be interested in attending. There will
be trade displays and our extensive
PSOA Sales Table for your convenience too.
I personally look forward to your attendance in helping us create
what we are sure will become an
outstanding success for the Parrot Society of Australia and aviculture
in this country.
Next Meeting is in June, please book your support
NOW!
Kind regards,
Stewart Williamson
President
Parrot Society of Australia Inc.
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| COMPANION
PARROT GROUP- By
Gary Colvin |
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Through, and part of the Parrot Society of Australia,
we wish to form a group of companion parrot owners, that can meet,
share and learn from each other at each Parrot Society meeting.
As a group we can have speakers and cover topics that are of interest
specifically to companion parrot owners. Things such as taming and
training, environmental enrichment, toys, feeding and nutrition
and anything that is of interest to you.
To make this successful, we are going to need the
support of the companion parrot community to get behind it and help
it grow and succeed. We need everyone to have an input on the direction
you want this group to take and help in making it happen.
Have a think of any suggestions and things you want
to see and contact me on garycolvinau@yahoo.com.au
and please list your subject as Companion Parrot Group, or The Parrot
Society on president@parrotsociety.org.au
Things to consider could be,
1.Topics of discussion
2. Do you want just open forum meetings, as just get-togethers?
3. Do you want to bring your companion parrots t the meetings?
4. Do you want to arrange other outings and parrot get-togethers,
such as parrot picnics or toy making days?
5. What services do you want to see?
There are lots more things that can be added to
this list, but we want to hear from you, so we can help make this
group for you and by you.
I look forward to hearing from you all and we can
discuss the findings of what you want and how we can implement it,
at the next meeting
Till then,
Cheers Gary
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| Topic for March
Parrot Society Companion Parrot Group Meeting: |
LETS
ALL USE THE “F” WORD FORAGING
CREATIVE FEEDING AS A MEANS OF ENVIRONMENTAL ENRICHENT
FOR CAPTIVE PARROTS |
Most Of our companion parrots live a solitary life,
with most of their natural behaviours greatly restricted, if not
missing all together. Sadly we are seeing more and more abnormal
behaviours, such as screaming, biting, feather plucking and self
mutilation, becoming common place in many companion parrots.
Trying to mimic some of a parrot’s natural behaviours can
assist in giving our companion parrots a more fulfilling and happy
life while living with us. Keeping our parrots flighted so they
can still perform what they are designed both mentally and physically
to do, FLY, adds greatly to their health, both physical and mental.
Giving your parrots as many and varied experiences as possible,
but always in a non threatening way, can add interest to an otherwise
dull existence. Natural branches and materials for them to perch
and use as grooming aids, can lessen the need for nail clipping,
while also preventing foot and leg problems and even arthritis.
Multiple cage housing can help mimic the act of having a roost and
a different play and feeding area can help add interest to their
day, as well as assist in preventing territorial issues.
Last but definitely not least, is Foraging. This is such an important
and natural behaviour and one that takes up most of a wild parrots
waking hours. In the wild, parrots will spend most of their day
flying and seeking out food and water. Some food may take more effort
to extract, such as various seeds and nuts from their kernels.
When you compare the activity of a wild parrots day and that of
a companion parrot, they are vastly different and the companion
parrots life is quiet boring and uninteresting with vast spaces
of time with very little to do.
Most companion and even aviary birds have their food delivered at
the same time and to the same bowl, placed in the place, every day,
for their entire existence. Never having to work to obtain their
food, couldn’t be further from how real life is.
Foraging can provide your parrot with brain food
by making him think how and where to obtain his food. Making him
work for his food will occupy his time and break up a monotonous
day. We are not sure how parrots think, but if they are capable
of thinking in terms of achievement and skill, I am sure foraging
will help. In recent studies, it has been shown that animals actually
prefer to forage and work to get their food, rather than just eat
food from a bowl.
If your parrots have always received their food
in a bowl, you may have to start off simple and build slowly in
the complexity of how you hide and distribute their food. Start
off with food in obvious places, such as their usual bowl and only
slightly disguise it, or hide it, till they get the idea. You do
not want to frustrate, cause anxiety, or scare your parrot from
eating. Some parrots can be very superstitious about novel and different
objects in their cages, so let your parrot guide you in his progress
of what you can and cannot do. You want to enrich and fulfil your
parrot’s life, not terrorize or confuse and frustrate him.
Luckily parrots are very inquisitive and love investigating and
learn quickly.
Most parrots catch on very quickly and once you
have them playing the game, there is no reason why you will ever
have to feed your parrot in a plain bowl, ever again.
While all this sounds a lot of work, once you get started and get
yourself set up, the extra work is minimal and they benefits greatly
out weigh any inconveniences.
Remember to vary the food dispensers you use and
use various types and different positions in the cage. Even a new
toy will lose its novelty, if used all the time, so have a variety
of ways to feed your parrot and change them regularly. Do not be
sacred to incorporate several different feeding types each time
you feed.
These days the range of parrot toys are increasing
at a rapid rate and luckily many manufacturers have discovered the
foraging market and are releasing more and more very clever foraging
toys for all different types and sizes of parrots.
Please support the PRC by purchasing foraging toys
from their online store
www.parrotrescuecentre.com
PARROT SOCIETY MARCH 2007
GARY COLVIN |
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| Spectaclar
Petacular PET EXPO 2007 |
The Parrot Rescue Centre was fortunate
enough to be given some free space at the Spectacular Petacular
in February. We would like to say a big thankyou to all that volunteered
and visited us on both days.
A special thankyou to Leah Peterson
from Animal Communications, Bill Fraser from Breeders Choice and
Jim Mckendry from Parrot Behaviour and Enrichment Consultations
who helped support us for the two days.
Here are some pictures of the PRC stand:
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| ANIMAL
COMMUNICATION- By Leah Peterson |
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How do Animals
Communicate with us?
We all know that animals have their own physical means of verbalizing;
barking, mewing, squawking…... And although they do not have
the capacity for fully functional speech as we know it(with the
exception of some of our very gifted parrots!), scientific research
continues to prove that animals produce the same chemical reactions
as humans when they are exposed to certain events, stimuli and environments.
From my experience animals think, feel, reason, love, feel pain
& emotions like we do. And they too want to communicate these
thoughts and feelings with us. When an animal does not have the
means to communicate with us in our own language they will communicate
via their body language, by displaying various physical behaviours
and by utilizing the language that we are all born knowing; that
is the language of telepathy! It is through telepathy that I am
able to communicate with our animal friends.
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The word telepathy conjures
up many negative stereotypes. Which is quite fascinating since we
all frequently do it …..and so do our animal friends!
Telepathy is the transference of pictures, symbols, thoughts &
feelings from one to another. It is the little picture you see in
your mind, the little voice you hear in your mind and it is those
sensations that you feel whilst you are engaged in thought and/or
conversation. Words are simply the verbal symbols that we use to
match those inner visions, thoughts and feelings.
In everyday life we are telepathing as we speak to each other and
to our animal friends. They actually understand these pictures and
thoughts more than the words we say to them. The more aware of it
you are the easier it is to recognise it as a form of communication.
The beautiful aspect of telepathy is that there are no distance
boundaries. Without going into Quantum physics I will just say that
we are all connected at an energetic level - humans, animals, plants,
our environment….even objects like your car. Have you ever
noticed that it is when you are having a "bad" day your
car won't start, or your computer crashes? It is a result of the
energy we are sending out.
When I connect with an animal to establish a communication I am
tuning into their energy. I do not need to be in the same room or
even the same country. There are many examples of this phenomena
in our daily lives….the most noted is when you are thinking
of a friend or relative whom you not have seen for a while and the
next thing you know….they phone you or you see them somewhere
unexpectedly. How many times have you been thinking about something
only to have the person you are with mention the exact same thing?
Or, to relate it to animals…how is it that some animals know
when their people are coming home? See my own story about Pippin
below.
One thing to remember….. the information and messages we
send and receive occur at lightening speed. This is why most people
don’t recognize it. By the time the message has been received
you will have already disregarded it and be thinking about the next
thought. So, an exercise for you to practice is to simply start
taking notice of all of your internal chatter, visions and thoughts.
This recognition and being aware of the messages is the first step
in communicating with your animals friends and strengthening the
bond you share. |
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Pippin's
Story
Meet Pippin….. She is delightful and after only a few months
of being part of our family she has steadily been warming up and
showing us her personality and some of her behaviours. One of those
behaviours is to start running back and forth whilst making a very
cute sound when one of us leaves the house or arrives home.
A number of weeks ago my husband and I were both out together.
We had decided that it was time to come home when we received a
call from our security company telling us that our alarm had been
activated. We automatically assume that perhaps Pippin, whose cage
is situated within the alarms sensor range probably slipped off
her perch or began flapping enough to set off the alarm.
Fortunately when we arrived home we found everyone safe and sound. |
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The following Saturday, once again as we were on our way home we
received another call from our security company saying that “yes”
our alarm had been activated. Yet again, we arrive home to find
everything as it should be.
Then, one midday I was at one end of the house when I heard Pippin
run to the bottom of her cage and start to do “her thing”.
I thought “Hmmmm….she only does this when one or both
of us is coming or going” then I got the message….my
husband was on his way home! Sure enough 3 minutes later he called
to say that he was on his way and had left only 2-3 minutes ago!
We had one more incident that occurred whilst my husband and I
were both out, but in separate locations. As it turned out we were
on our way home at the same time. We each received calls from the
security company to let us know that the alarm was activated.
Pippin continued to validate that she was "tuning into"
our thoughts and intentions of coming home. As soon as we had made
the decision to come home she picked up our energy, got the message
and began to do her "dance of excitement"!
Just to clarify for those of you who may still question the validity
of Pippin “telepathically” picking up when we are coming
home 1. In all cases we had been at least 30 minutes drive away,
so there is no way she could have heard the car & 2. We don’t
have regular times of coming and going so there is no way she can
do this as a routine time-structured behaviour.
Needless to say we have remedied the situation so that Pippin does
not set off the alarm in the future.
Next month: I will discuss the difference between
an Animal Communicator & a Pet Psychic!
Leah Petersen is a well respected Animal Intuitive with a client
base from around the world. She has successfully facilitated Animal
Communication readings for many pets and their people. Her unique
gift provides you with a glimpse into the sacred innermost thoughts
and feelings of your beloved animal companions.
Consultations are conducted in person or via telephone.
Phone: (07) 5556-0335 or Mobile: 0427-157-156
If you believe your parrot has a physical ailment
or illness please see a qualified Avian Veterinarian before seeking
an Animal Communication session.
Investigate the physical, then explore the spiritual!
For On-Line bookings & further information please visit my web
site at;
www.animalinstincts.com.au
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| NEW
PRC TOY RANGE |
The PRC has introduced new Parrot
Toys- These toys are some of our great Foraging Toy Range. Foraging
toys as Gary Colvin quotes in his lecture for the Parrot Society
meeting are a great source of enrichment for your parrots, as
it enables them to access the same skills as they would in the
wild and that they have instinctly.
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Please
Click here for our full product range.
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| PRC
SHOP UPDATE - TOY PARTS GALOUR |
TOY PARTS
Mixed toy parts including
plastic and wood pieces have been added to the PRC shop, we will
continue to add more toy part items to the toy parts section of
the PRC shop, so please stay tuned.
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Parrot Behaviour & Enrichment Consultations |
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| Since the last issue of the PRC
Newsletter, Zarita has forwarded on an e-mail question that was sent
to her by a young parrot enthusiast. I’d like to use this letter
to kick start an opportunity for Newsletter readers to send in your
questions and have them answered by me. It’s up to you guys
to keep this column going so if you have any question – no matter
how big or small you think it is, ask away! I look forward to hearing
from the PRC Newsletter readers over the next few months. |
QUESTION? |
From Amy...
I have three cockatiels – Pearl, Eddie and Sparky. I have read
that you can buy bird’s harnesses. Do these hurt the bird? Also,
my cockatiels don’t like fruits and vegetables but I would like
them to eat it. How do I get them to eat fruits and vegetables? |
ANSWER! |
| Jim’s
Feedback...
I’ll answer Amy’s first question on harnesses in this
issue and then look at why cockatiels are such finicky eaters in
the next!
Bird harnesses have become very popular over the past few years.
Different people are likely to have different opinions on the use
of harnesses with birds. Personally, I don’t use them with
my birds, as I don’t take my birds into situations that might
necessitate harnessing the bird. Whilst I don’t use harnesses
myself, I know of a number of people who do and the outcomes seem
to be OK in most cases. My philosophy is that I’d rather see
a companion parrot owner spend time working with their parrot and
training it to wear a harness than clip its wings. Parrots with
wings make me smile lots and I think harnesses might be helping
a few pet parrots out there keep theirs!
There are some great Internet sources of information on harness
training and I have linked a few at the end of this column. First
though, here are a few of my thoughts on the use of harnesses with
pet parrots...
*A harness should never be considered a `taming’ tool. It
is what it is – a physical restraint to stop a bird from flying
away. Before attempting to train your parrot to wear a harness consider
`why’ you want to use a harness. If it is to `tame’
your parrot then you need to consider better and more sensitive
strategies.
*If your relationship with your parrot is not a very confident
and highly interactive one, where your parrot accepts a high degree
of physical handling, then you need to work on the relationship
and trust building first. By achieving an interactive relationship
first you will minimise potential problems caused by placing a harness
on a bird that is already apprehensive around human hands. Some
parrots are simply not the best candidates for wearing a harness
and being placed in situations that might necessitate a harness.
Consider if your parrot is likely to be receptive to wearing a harness,
rather than making the decision based solely on your needs and desires.
*Most requirements for using a harness come from a desire to have
a flighted pet parrot with the owner in outdoor environments. This
is valid and I know of a number of harness users who are very responsible
and have done an outstanding job of training their parrot to accept
wearing a harness and associate it with positive and motivating
experiences. Always be mindful that when you take a parrot into
an outdoor environment that you are no longer in control of the
many variables that could potentially cause harm to the bird. A
harness is not a guaranteed protection from harm for a bird on someone’s
shoulder in an outdoor environment. Anytime that a parrot is outdoors,
the handler needs to be very conscious of what is happening in the
environment and remove the bird from potential hazards if they are
encountered.
*Desensitising your parrot to having a harness placed on it can
be challenging. However, if you take a slow and sensitive approach
then it can be achieved, hopefully with minimal difficulties. Restraining
a parrot and placing a harness on it may result in aggression towards
the owner, so you need to be considerate of the parrot and appreciate
that having a harness placed on it is a very unnatural and potentially
irritating experience. Introduce the harness as an object that the
parrot can explore, pick up and interact with, before progressing
to working on fitting it to your parrot.
*When your parrot is comfortable with the harness as an `object’
that is not threatening then you can take the next step in placing
the harness strap over the wing of the parrot and then removing
it after a second or two. You can then gradually lengthen the time
the harness is over the bird, effectively allowing the bird to get
used to having a foreign object placed over it. It’s at this
time that it’s a great idea to positively reward allowing
any part of the harness to be placed on the parrot. You can do this
by delivering a food treat that is especially favoured by your bird
every time you interact with it and the harness. You need to then
use the body language of your parrot to guide your progress towards
longer periods of having the harness placed over it. If you have
done a good job of positively rewarding such interactions with a
food treat or another effective form of reinforcement, then your
parrot will learn to associate the harness with the delivery of
things it is motivated towards and enjoys receiving. If this learning
process is achieved then the bird will behave in a manner that increases
the likelihood of receiving those rewards again in the future.
*When your parrot is comfortable interacting with the harness and
allows it to be placed over it, then you can start working on clipping
the harness on. Once again – start with on and off, followed
by the delivery of a reward. Gradually increase the time it is on
and keep up the reinforcement.
*Patience produces the greatest rewards with pet parrots. Set yourself
up to succeed with a realistic time schedule for working with your
parrot to harness train it. Keep sessions short and filled with
positive reinforcement. The best outcomes are achieved when a parrot
has time to learn gradually, with each step along the way well reinforced.
*Some parrot owners can progress to their bird wearing the harness
within a few short training sessions. It will all depend on the
individual bird and the sensitivity and skill of the owner in successfully
achieving harmonious harness wearing!
It would be great if some of the harness companies would produce
a DVD that shows clearly the steps in getting a parrot wear a harness.
Manufacturers of various dog harnesses have produced similar DVDs
and these are very beneficial. Unfortunately, I have seen some really
traumatic attempts at getting a frightened parrot to wear a harness
and these shouldn’t occur. Hopefully one of the manufacturer’s
will produce a great visual guide showing the step-by-step process.
The first one that does will get my endorsement! In the meantime,
here are two really good articles that will give you more insights
into successfully harnessing your parrot...
http://www.parrotchronicles.com/2005/features/harness/harness.htm
http://www.birdsnways.com/wisdom/ww25e.htm
Best of luck with the harness training Amy! Next time we’ll
look at that Cockatiel feeding dilemma – a really common issue
amongst owners of pet Australian native parrots.
I’d really like to encourage all companion parrot enthusiasts
to attend this year’s workshops at Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary.
Our next workshop series will be...
Level 1: Saturday June 30th from 8:30am until 1:00pm
Level 2: Sunday July 1st from 8:30am until 3:30pm
Numbers are filling up for these workshops but places are still
available so download a registration form from http://www.pbec.com.au/education/workshops.htm
soon and send it in to Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary. By doing both
of our workshops you will be engaging in the most comprehensive
educational experience for parrot owners that is available in Australia.
I’d love to see you all there!
Kind Regards, Jim McKendry BTeach BApp Sc
Parrot Behaviour & Enrichment Consultations
http://www.pbec.com.au
jim@pbec.com.au
mobile: 0421 175 841
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| www.pbec.com.au |
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Presented
By: |
Jim McKedrey (Parrot Behaviour
Consultant) |
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Place: |
Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary |
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Date: |
Saturday June 30th- Level 1Workshop |
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Time: |
8:30am – 1pm |
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Cost: |
$100* ($80 for second member of household) |
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For
Bookings please phone: Cait Feldmann, Education Manager CWS, via
phone on 07-5534 0846 |
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| Support
the Parrot Rescue Centre |
| The Parrot Rescue Centre spends a
lot of time and resources in doing what is best for the parrots
by ensuring the birds are regularly vet checked, given fresh food,
enrichment, clean aviaries and cages, providing natural habitats
and by building larger enclosures.
The PRC is not a large organisation, it is privately owned and
managed by Zarita and Family. To help fund the PRC Zarita has created
the PRC shop and bird boarding services and also relies on the generosity
of the public. The PRC does not receive any financial assistance
from the government or other large organisations.
We need your
help and support to continue to provide a high standard of care
to the PRC parrots.
The PRC needs your HELP
NOW. Due to regular vet checks, illness and sudden
deaths amongst the PRC birds within the last six months, the PRC
vet bill has exceeded $2000. We really need your support to help
pay this account. If you are wanting to help the PRC, please send
us a cheque made out for Currumbin Veterinary Services to the Parrot
Rescue Centre.
Thankyou for your support.
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| PLEASE
HELP NOW |
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How
you can help: |
| 1. Purchase toys and accessories
from the PRC shop click here. |
| 2. Make a monetary donation
click here. |
| 3. Send a Donation Cheque
to the PRC for Currumbin Valley Veterinary Services to help pay the
PRC Vet Account. |
Parrot Rescue Centre
Po Box 797
Mudgeeraba, QLD 4213
Alternatively contact me directly on 0755692840
to discuss
how you would like to give your support
Thankyou for your kindness.
Yours truly,
Zarita Garozzo
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Member
Moments -
Story
of the month
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Polly!
Cathy has won best story for
the month of April!
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| Hi Zarita,
You might remember that I emailed you a couple of months ago, in
some confusion about my Rainbow Lorrikeet, Polly. We had inherited
her from friends who found her a handful, after she flew into their
backyard.
She was quite aggressive to start with but she had settled down
quite a bit with us. But then she started going 'crazy' and bit
my kids whenever they came near me, if I was holding her.
You had explained it was probably due to it being mating season
and that she (Polly), thought I was her mate. Things were looking
grim, but I really didn't want to get rid of her.
So, in desperation, I decided to give her 'time outs' - if she
was antisocial at all, I would put her back in her cage and put
it outside. We would all ignore her, no matter if she screeched
or whatever, for about half a day.
Then she would get another chance. If she bit or showed any aggression
towards the children while I was holding her, she would go back
in time out.
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I was amazed at how well
this worked - like a child, she hates being ignored and away from
the family. Now, I rarely need to do it, but she needs much shorter
time outs to get the message. She is obviously very smart, because
she really does try to be good!
She is still in the house and part of the family. She is sitting
on my shoulder right now and chattering away to me. We had a close
call a fortnight ago when Polly got down and pecked our dog one
too many times. Even though the dog only 'mouthed' her as a warning,
poor Polly's eye heamorrhaged severely and she spent four days in
hospital. She has been well nursed by all of us and she cab open
the eye for increasing periods now. It even seems she can see out
of it. She has become even more affectionate since this incident.
She wouldn't eat at first at the vet, but I brought all her favourite
foods in and sat with her for ages. She picked up after that and
was soon home.
Thank you so much for your advice on parrot behaviour - it played
a major part in us being able to keep Polly. We are now hand raising
a baby cockatiel that was given to us, so we are very fast learning
about birds! I just wish there was a course or something that people
had to do on parrots before they could buy them, because until you
understand their behaviour, it can be quite hard going.
All our friends were worried about Polly when she was sick - she
is very hard to ignore - even when I'm on the phone they can hear
her! So even though she started out as a bit of a rebel, everyone
thinks she is pretty amazing.
We are going to our home schooling group today and Polly will come
along, so everyone can make a fuss over her being okay.
Thanks again for your advice,
Cathy. |
| How
to Enter Your Member Story: |
How
to enter the monthly draw to win a PRC recommended parrot toy and
have your birdies picture and story part of the PRC Newsletter.
·
Fill out the Parrot Rescue Centre Membership Form ·
Write a story about your feathered friends, weather emotional, funny
or silly ·
Send it to zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com ·
Include a photo of your bird as an attachment on the email.
It’s
that easy! We look forward to hearing your stories!
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| “From
the Avian Vets Desk” WHEN AND WHY DO WE TRIM BIRDS’ BEAKS
AND CLAWS |
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Birds’ beaks and claws grow like our finger nails. However,
normal, healthy birds wear their beaks and claws down and keep
them in trim through their everyday activities of climbing, chewing,
foraging and eating within their environment. That is why it is
very important to provide pet birds with plenty of natural leafy
branches from Australian native trees to keep their beaks and
claws in shape.
Healthy birds don’t need their beaks trimmed.
Whenever birds needing beak trims, are presented at my surgery
it is usually the result of an underlying problem. Trauma, disease,
dietary deficiencies or genetic problems are some of the reasons
for beaks growing too long. It is necessary to investigate the
underlying cause of overgrown beaks, rather than just simply trimming
the beak.
Trauma to the beak can result in crooked or abnormal
growth. Breaks, knocks or bites to the bird’s beak can cause
growth and alignment problems. If the top beak is broken or damaged,
the bottom beak will grow longer because it has nothing to wear
against. The beak is a precision instrument and any damage to
the natural alignment of top and bottom beak will result in abnormal
wear and growth problems.
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Genetic problems such as “scissor beak”, where the
upper beak and lower beak cross over making it impossible for
one to wear or grind against the other, also result in overgrowth.
This can also be a developmental/growth problem. A “pug”
beak is another genetic cause of overgrown beaks. In this case
the bird is hatched with an overshot lower beak, which needs continual
cutting as it cannot wear or grind against the upper beak.
Vitamin and mineral deficiency can also contribute to beak growth
problems. The beak can become brittle and flaky as well as becoming
overgrown. Birds with a high fat diet become obese and develop
fatty liver syndrome. Chronic fatty liver disease is another common
cause of long beaks. In these cases it is necessary to correct
the dietary imbalances and to treat the fatty liver disease as
well as trimming the overgrown beak. Birds with fatty liver disease
have problems with blood clotting and the beak will bleed excessively
if the “quick” is damaged during trimming.
Infections can also result in deformed or overgrown beaks. Scaly
face mite is a common cause of overgrown, misshapen beaks, especially
in budgies and canaries. Scaly face mite can be simply treated
by your avian veterinarian. Viral diseases such as Psittacine
Circovirus and Polyoma-virus also cause beak growth problems.
Blood tests are used to diagnose viral problems. However, there
is no treatment for these viruses and they are very contagious.
As you can see, the need for a beak trim is a warning sign that
something is “not right” with your bird. Your avian
veterinarian is the best person to investigate the reasons why
the beak is overgrown. Sometimes the answer can be as simple as
providing more “browse” (green, leafy, branches from
Australian native trees) for the birds to chew on, but more often
than not there is a need to investigate further to get to the
bottom of the problem.
Similarly, a healthy bird’s claws should not need trimming.
No-one trims the wild bird’s beaks and claws. If a pet bird
is provided with rough bark perches from Australian native trees,
their claws should wear naturally. The perches need to be wide
enough for the bird’s foot to spread evenly over the top
of the perch rather than being tightly curled round a too narrow
perch.
However, trauma, infections and dietary imbalances can also result
in birds having overgrown claws. Birds with feet damaged from
fractures, arthritis, or infections such as “bumble-foot”
have difficulty with wearing their claws down naturally. These
birds often need to visit their avian veterinarian in order to
trim the claws on damaged feet.
Birds with fatty liver syndrome commonly are presented with overgrown
claws as well as with overgrown beaks. In these cases, the veterinarian
needs to be aware of the fact that fatty liver birds bleed easily
and care must be taken not to cut the quick when trimming the
claws or have cautery readily available.
When trimming beaks and claws, I use a cordless, hand drill to
grind back the excess length. This tool gives a rounded finish
to the claws and beak rather than the “crushing effect”
that occurs from using nail clippers. The hand drill also allows
for finer detail when remodeling a beak.
If you think that your bird’s beak or claws need a trim,
contact your avian veterinarian who will examine your bird and
find out why the overgrowth is occurring.
(Some commonly available, safe, Australian native trees for birds
to chew on, include: Wattle, Gum, Melaleuca, Bottlebrush,Paper
Bark, Tee Tree, Banksia, She Oak, Lillypilly, Grevillia). Check
with your local Nursery to help you identify these varieties.
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Written by Peter
Wilson
BVSc MACVSc
Avian and Reptile Practitioner
To contact Peter Wilson Click
Here
This article was published in Paws and Claws Journal March/June
07

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Ph: 07 5569 2840
Email: zarita@parrotrescuecentre.com
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